Food & drink
Le GV Restaurant: An exceptional dining experience in Malta showcasing the best ingredients
Part of the 1926 Collection, this fine-dining restaurant is all about attention to detail

Ramona Depares

The 1926 Collection is a collection of hotels created by a family in homage to the incredible life of their father, Sunny. The collection has become synonymous with quiet luxury, embodying a carefully curated ensemble of boutique hotels that are rooted in the charm and culture of Malta. The properties offer a uniquely personalised approach to hospitality, coupled with sustainability and a Mediterranean flair. Meanwhile, the company is gearing up to open another two properties in 2025, a testament to its commitment towards strengthening Malta's luxury offering. 

Le GV Rooftop

Now, the 1926 tribute welcomes another addition, Le GV Rooftop Restaurant, located on the eleventh floor of the Le Soleil Hotel & Spa. The idea and concept of Le GV was inspired by a trip to Paris taken by Sunny and his daughter in the 90s, where the setting of the stupendous George V Hotel and a shared bottle of wine from a famous Chateau became a treasured memory for her. This is where the name GV comes from.

Stepping into this new addition to Malta’s fine dining landscape immediately sets the tone for an elegant, memorable experience – from the stunning statement that is the chef's table, to the restaurant floor, which offers unimpeded sea views thanks to the restaurant’s glass facade. It’s an intimate space that’s complemented by the wonderful energy of an open kitchen, bringing everything together as the beating heart of Le GV.

Le GV Rooftop

The culinary experience at Le GV is the brainchild of Executive Chef Andrew Borg and Pastry Chef David Tanti, whose idea for a new culinary concept in Malta perfectly complemented the ethos and identity of the 1926 Collection. Both highly respected names on the local fine-dining scene, the two Chefs are known for creating curated food experiences with a strong focus on impeccable service. Le GV builds on this reputation with an entirely new approach that is centred around high-quality produce and ingredients.

Executive Chef Andrew Bor

Executive Chef Andrew Borg

“Le GV is built around our trusted suppliers. We start with the product and then create the menu based around it. In fact, we don’t have a fixed menu, because our dishes depend on what our producers have available. If the weather is not favourable for fresh fish, in that case, we’ll tailor our menu on the day around other ingredients,” Chef Andrew starts off.

Chef David nods with a smile: “When we say we’re close to our suppliers, we mean it. First, we check what they’re offering and then we work backwards to create the daily menu. You won’t ever find an identical menu at Le GV.”

They agree that the start of the week is always the most hectic, because it’s when suppliers are relaying their produce. Sometimes there may be an excess of one particular item, such as Jerusalem artichokes. This doesn’t present any issues for either of them as they simply create different dishes around the vegetable.

“It’s an approach that keeps us on our toes, maybe more than we’d like. No-one can say they’re bored with the menu here! The prominence is on local produce, and we’ve managed to find suppliers that really go outside of the norm in terms of ingredients,” Chef Andrew explains.

Le GV Rooftop

The result is a gloriously unique fusion of flavours. Anything that’s not available locally is sourced as close to Malta as possible, from Greece, Italy and other neighbouring countries.

“While we focus on local, we do introduce other flavours. Let’s say we’re adding kimchi to a dish. We’ll use it in a way that’s loyal to the main, local ingredient,” Chef David continues. He adds that many are suprised at the availability of some produce, citing a Malta-based venison farm as a prime example.

“You wouldn’t imagine we get our venison locally, but we do. When it’s available, we plan all our dishes around the schedule of the farm. The quality is incredible and, of course, it’s reflected in the price. But the end result is so much better than if we were to import venison from, say, New Zealand,” he says.

Le GV Rooftop

For both chefs, this idea of tailoring their menus around the quality of the produce is something they’re passionate about. Seasonality and sustainability aren’t mere buzz words here - they’re the two elements that guarantee a high-quality, fine-dining experience.

“Nowadays even the idea of seasonality has evolved. This means that we use produce only when nature makes it available. We’ve had to adapt considerably in this regard. Leeks, for instance, are traditionally a winter vegetable, but last summer we had an abundance of them. We were astounded, but we adapted accordingly even though it’s a bit of a curveball as it would usually be used in more wintry recipes,” Andrew says.

Both agree that the main takeaway here is that quality is paramount at Le GV. To ensure this, the menu is finalised relatively late every day, giving the two chefs time to truly devote their attention to making the best use of what’s available.

“Preparation starts with the supplier. Once we’ve decided how to make the best use of our ingredients, it’s time to move to the cooking phase,” they say, adding that they prepare everything themselves, in-house. By everything they mean everything - including the bread and even some of the pasta. Both chefs devote their entire attention to the preparation process, before passing on the dish for plating.

“The ingredients are definitely the star of the whole show. Certainly not the plating. And, of course, the service,” Chef Andrew says.

By ‘service’, he doesn’t mean the way the waiter serves up the plate, but the entire package of experiences that includes everything from the ambience to the cutlery.

“Attention to detail is essential. Everything the guest touches should be the best - from the quality of the cutlery to the linen tablecloths, the weight of the glasses and down to what they see and smell. This is what makes the difference between an okay dinner and a wonderful fine-dining experience. And it’s not just about first impressions. If you’re here for two and a half hours, giving us your time, the least we can do is deliver the detail,” Chef Andrew continues.

Pastry Chef David Tanti

Pastry Chef David Tanti

This is a philosophy that Chef David also prizes and that he has introduced to the dessert menu, which is unlike anything I’ve seen at other restaurants. In fact, there’s only one entry, comprising three to four smaller items that he finalises on the day.

“Typically, I will prepare three lighter items and a main one as a centrepiece. My approach is always not to overdo the sugary sweetness. Instead, I use contrasting flavours and ingredients to create a sweet spark. For instance, I might use the bold flavours of dark chocolate for the main item, accompanied by the more delicate accents of a pear and honey cake, and ice-cream,” he explains.

Again, it’s the availability of quality ingredients that dictate his decisions. He describes how he made use of an abundance of peaches in the summer months, using a very simple preparation that allowed their natural flavours to shine. And, sometimes, there are surprises, such as when he prepared ice-cream with Schezuan pepper. But even here, everything is done with the aim of exalting the taste buds, rather than shocking them.

“While it’s nice to have a surprising touch or two, I like to keep within guests’ expectations. The addition of the pepper, for example, happened because it really complemented the profile of the chocolate we were serving,” he says.

Le GV Rooftop

At the end of the day, both chefs agree – it’s the guest that rules.

“When someone has decided to trust the evening’s entertainment to us, we feel it’s our responsibility to ensure that we return the favour with a beautiful evening that they will remember. In truth, the priority is the guest. It’s all about making sure that they’re happy they decided to spend their evening at Le GV,” the two chefs conclude.

30th December 2024


Ramona Depares
Written by
Ramona Depares
Ramona is an award-winning journalist and an author whose works have been published on both local and international fora. She is also the founder of a cultural blog - www.ramonadepares.com - dedicated to theatre, fashion, books and events in Malta. Ramona is fuelled by good coffee, music, the occasional glass of wine, and people-watching.

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