The Maltese Islands’ beating heart is split between two distinct yet captivating capitals. On the main island, Valletta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built by the Knights of St John, is a treasure trove of Baroque architecture, history and modern culture. A wander through the Renzo Piano-designed City Gate leads visitors into a bustling maze of pedestrianised thoroughfares teeming with trendy boutiques, lively cafés and Michelin-starred restaurants. From the awe-inspiring interiors of St John’s Co-Cathedral and Teatru Manoel – to the panoramic Grand Harbour views from the Upper Barrakka Gardens and the striking Malta International Contemporary Art Space (MICAS) just outside its walls, Valletta is a powerhouse that effortlessly bridges the past and the present.

A short ferry ride across the water, Gozo, Malta’s sister island, operates at a slower pace, and its capital, Victoria (known locally as Rabat), reflects this tranquil charm. Compact and steeped in history, the city is crowned by the magnificent Cittadella, a beautifully restored medieval fortress perched high upon a hill overlooking spectacular countryside views. Life here spills out from the bastions down into the vibrant hub of Independence Square, where locals gather amidst a rich tapestry of quaint alleyways and artisan shops.

Yet, while any good guide will rightly point you towards Valletta’s Grand Master’s Palace or Victoria’s towering Cittadella, these historic heavyweights are only half the story. To truly capture the essence of these cities – the hidden gems, quiet rituals and authentic pulse of the streets – you need to look beyond the obvious.

MARAMA CORLETT is an internationally acclaimed actress and dancer best known for her roles in shows like The Watch and Black Mirror. Born and raised in Malta, she maintains a deep personal and creative connection to her hometown, Valletta.

For Marama, the capital’s magic isn’t just architectural. “The soul of Valletta isn’t found in its monuments, but in its people and the small, everyday places that keep the city alive against the odds,” she explains.

“It lives in the families and individuals who treat the city as home in the truest sense: those keeping traditions going, like the best Maltese bread at Borg Bakery at the bottom of Strait Street; the Victor Galea Haberdashery; the goldsmiths on St Lucia Street; and long-standing shops like G Muscat Drapers,” she says, also championing family-run restaurants like Rubino, and the kiosks at the Barrakka Gardens. “These are spaces that feel almost unchanged in a city that is constantly shifting. You might even catch small moments, like a sweet elderly lady called Grace walking her cat through St Dominic Street – scenes that quietly say more about Valletta than anything else ever could.”

While she agrees that St John’s Co-Cathedral is a must-see, she suggests an alternative starting point. “Most people don’t realise you can actually start exploring the city underground first,” she notes, recommending Heritage Malta’s Underground Valletta tour. “Beneath the streets you’ll find an incredible network of tunnels, reservoirs, grain silos, wells, drainage systems, and passageways carved directly into the rock. Walking through them really makes you appreciate how cleverly the city was planned centuries ago.”

Marama also recommends the Valletta ‘ring road walk’ just before sunset, “when the limestone starts to shift colour and turns that warm golden tone.”

“I’d start at the Upper Barrakka Gardens, take the Grand Harbour lift down, and follow the perimeter along the bastions,” she says. “You really get a sense of the city’s shape and how it was designed to rise from the rock and watch over the water. After that, head back into the heart of the city and finish the evening with a drink at Ta’ Lonza, or a Maltese-style pizza at San Paolo Naufrago.”

Quintessential Valletta stops for Marama also include “coffee and toasted Maltese bread at Kir Royal Café, or a takeaway traditional pastizz (savoury cheesecake) from Sphinx or Champ’s Pastizzeria.”

Reflecting on her childhood in the city, she recalls how, after office hours, the city would go completely quiet. Today, it is chaotic and full of life, which is why she treasures the early hours. “My favourite time to wander is between 2am and 6am. That’s when the city shows its other side: peaceful streets surrounded by the sound of the sea and church bells. It feels like the Valletta I grew up in, mysterious and beautiful.”

This article was first featured in the 100th edition of GuidemeMalta 2026.