One of the island’s most delicious fruits is paired with classic rock in the second largest town in Gozo.
The residents of Xaghra sure give a fig about their figs. So much so that they celebrate this gorgeous fruit with an annual two-day festival. And this year, there’s some classic rock thrown in for good measure.
Apart from its numerous historic and natural attractions (top of the list: the oldest free-standing temple in the world), Xaghra is blessed with some of the most fertile soils anywhere on the island. It is unsurprising, therefore, that this town has the largest number of farmers cultivating figs. The town is a member of Ficusnet - a European network of towns and villages that produce figs - and its fig festival, now in its ninth edition, has become an annual event synonymous with Xaghra.
Figs in Malta
The fig tree originated in the Middle East and has been cultivated since the Neolithic period (at least 11,000 years). It has since adapted well to Mediterranean conditions, and until recently, the Maltese Islands were carpeted with around 6,000 fig trees. Traditionally, annual Maltese fig crops would yield hundreds of thousands of kilos in early green figs (known as St John’s Figs, or bajtar ta’ San Gwann) and tens of thousands of kilos of dry purple figs (farkizzan). Sadly, since 2009, around half of Malta’s fig trees have been decimated by a pesky bark beetle. Three years ago, 3,000 trees grown in specialised labs were planted across the island to replenish the fig population.
Celebrating the fruit
Xaghra's fig festival comes at the right time when the plump and tender early fruit matures. And, as you can imagine, these bajtar ta’ San Gwann get star billing on the menu this weekend. “The festival celebrates the cultivation, culinary possibilities and other uses of this unique fruit,” says Daniela Sultana, one of the organisers behind the festival. “The aim is to keep such skills alive.”
There’s no denying the locals are justly proud of their town. “Xaghra is well-known for its bustling square dotted with award-winning restaurants, cafes and bars,” continues Daniela. “It is also home to some of the most stunning views on the island. The Fig Festival will build on the energy already present on a daily basis. It will bring culture, tradition, culinary art and music together, curated in a way for everyone to enjoy.”
Programme of events
The weekend kicks off at 8pm with HillTop Rock on Saturday 30th June, featuring local and foreign musicians including Cheryl Balzan, Kevin McGowan, Chris Grech and Cash & Band. Figs take centre stage on Sunday 1st July at LejlaTina (figs are called tin in Maltese, pronounced “teen”). Chef Dario will be on hand to create fig-inspired dishes which are, seemingly, endless. And you can even get involved in preparing one of these dishes.
“For me, nothing tastes better in summer and beats the heat like figs,” enthuses Dario. “What’s remarkable about this kind of fruit is that when other fruit and vegetables seem to have a hard time surviving our blazing climate, the fig flourishes under the intense summer heat, producing the sweetest and most succulent of fruits.”
“The rich history behind the fig tree makes it special enough to protect it as much as possible in order for us to savour and taste the juiciness of its fruit,” he adds. Figs are famously rich in several minerals and are a good source of antioxidants and fibre. While they make for a versatile ingredient in many cooked dishes, be it savoury or sweet, Chef Dario prefers them “simply raw, peeled but most importantly chilled.”
At LejlaTina, he will be preparing figs in three different ways, grilled, stuffed and en croûte. “Cooking figs intensifies their high sugar content and creates the perfect caramelisation when sprinkled with Demerara sugar and grilled for five minutes,” explains Dario. “I will also be stuffing the figs with goats cheese and garnishing them with pecan nuts. And there will also be fig and gorgonzola tarts.”
He is also planning to get festival goers involved in a competition to prepare certain components of a recipe. So get your aprons on, it might get messy!
Making tin tac-cappa
Fresh figs are very delicate and perishable and are only available for a short period of time which is why they are often dried and preserved. One of the oldest ways of preserving figs was making tin tac-cappa, quite literally a lump of ripe dried figs. The fruit would be cut open and taken to the village bakery in large trays to warm up and kill any insects. A large wooden box or biscuit tin would be lined with parchment paper and a bed of bay leaves, and the layering would then begin. First, a layer of hot figs, followed by a sprinkling of fennel seeds, more bay leaves and chopped almonds. Each layer was soaked with a generous dash of liqueur made by boiling water with bay leaves and fennel seeds and topping it with rum and anisette. A clean cloth was place on top of each layer and this was pressed down with a heavy weight (or a person’s full body weight!). The final layer was covered in bay leaves, sealed and left to mature in a cool, dark place for several months. Traditionally, the box of dried figs would be unwrapped on St Martin’s feast on 11th November. You may come across it in some delis and supermarkets.
Figs three ways
Chef Dario reveals a few other clever ways to use figs. “Figs, whether eaten raw or cooked, go very well with cheeses. You can bake a fig in pastry cases or wrapped in your favourite dough with your preferred cheese. For the bleu lovers I would recommend using a strong Stilton or sweet Gorgonzola. Add nuts and honey to the stuffing.”
“Eaten raw, figs go very well with fresh green leaves, parmesan shavings, thinly sliced fresh fennel in brine, Italian cold cuts of meat and a semi-sweet, medium acidic dressing made from orange juice and fennel seeds with a mustard and onion base,” adds Dario.
And for the sweet toothed, the chef suggested poaching figs in a medium-bodied red wine with cardamom and cinnamon. “Wait for the alcohol to evaporate, add pineapple juice and a sprig of fresh thyme. Strain and chill, then serve with vanilla whipped cream and frozen berries,” he says.
Taste buds tickled enough?
HillTop Rock is on Saturday 30th June at 8pm at Victory Square, Xaghra Gozo. LejlaTina is on Sunday 1st July from 6pm onwards in the same square. DJ Pierre Cordina, Mae Band and Ta’ Vestru Folk Group will be performing while Chef Dario will lead the live cooking sessions.