Isn’t it disappointing when you find yourself in a beautiful city, happen upon an eatery in a magnificent spot and settle down for a meal, only to find that the fare on offer is less-than-splendid? It’s happened to me several times, in various countries – an unfortunate experience that has come to be known as the dreaded tourist trap.

I’ve had terrible pizza in Venice (yes, Italy!) and been overcharged for simple eats in myriad city centres, simply due to the restaurant’s location within a stunning square or overlooking a picturesque vista. It happens in Malta too – eateries with exceptional views or in unique locations which do their utmost to churn out only the most mediocre of food and service. This, thankfully, is not the case with The Harbour Club.

Housed within a converted warehouse dating back to the 18th century, with fantastic views of the Grand Harbour from its beautifully laid out terrace, The Harbour Club is tasteful in its décor and cuisine, which can be loosely described as Mediterranean with a French influence.

Full disclosure: this was not my first time here, and it is not likely to be my last. Consistency in good food and service is an undeniable weakness among local restaurants, and every visit becomes a test – will it be as good as last time?

On this occasion, we made a reservation for an early dinner so as to make the most of the sunset across the harbour, and arrived promptly at 7pm, a healthy appetite in tow. One consistent element here is the attentive service – regardless of the server, the staff here are always knowledgeable and friendly. As our waiter talked us through the specials, he presented us with a new concept the restaurant has added this summer – a message in a bottle (literally) coming directly from the chef, explaining one of the day’s specialities. This was a nice touch, and provided food for thought beyond the seasonal menu.

As my dining companion and I sipped on the day’s special cocktail of Meridiana’s bajtra liqueur and Tanqueray gin (a sweet concoction with a Maltese touch), we perused the menu and settled on our choices. To start, we opted for one of the specials – a rabbit liver pate that came out beautifully presented and cooked to perfection, complemented by a side of charred toast, which added an extra layer of texture and complexity to the dish.

The second starter was a menu option – grilled octopus tentacles with chorizo, steamed potatoes and salsa verde, which was equally attractive in presentation. The chorizo in the dish brought back memories of summer holidays in Spain, and made for a fantastic contrast to the octopus, the flavour of which was not masked by any of the other ingredients in the dish.

As we ruminated over our starters and sipped on our chosen Sancerre, the sun began to set, bathing the sky over the harbour in pink and orange tones – a flawless setting for a summer evening meal.

Our mains soon followed, and once again, we opted for one speciality of the day and one menu item. Off the menu was the USDA beef ribeye, served with pickled Shimeji mushrooms and sauce Bordelaise – a juicy cut of meat that was perfectly cooked to the requested medium rare, tender and full of flavour.

The special that tempted us off the menu was a fantastic fillet of gurbell (meagre), which the chef paired with olive oil mashed potatoes and veggies. The fish was crisp and flavourful, the delicate meat inside contrasting excellently with the charred skin and accompanying veggies.

Finally, because no meal that strays from our general healthy eating plan is truly worth it without a sweet end, it was time to inspect the dessert menu. With a curated selection of just four options, there isn’t much to get lost in when it comes to desserts, but I would argue in favour of this – too many options can make a decision more agonising than it needs to be!

After some deliberation, we went for the white chocolate and lemongrass mousse served with lime sorbet – particularly since I have come to consider it a personal mission to sample as many variations on dessert featuring white chocolate as possible (and it is a mission I take very seriously). Here, the sweet and tart flavours of the white chocolate and citrus balanced each other out beautifully, giving the dish a lighter feel than one would expect.

The second dessert we chose was a chilled chocolate fondant with praline purée and bourbon whiskey ice cream – another menu mainstay that my dining partner and I find it difficult to pass up. A rich option particularly in comparison to the mousse, the fondant was devilish and the accompanying ice-cream did nothing to combat the richness! Thankfully, this was a smaller portion, making it more manageable after a full meal.

All in all, it was another memorable evening at a restaurant that continues to cement itself within my personal list of local favourites. Please, never change!

Verdict

Food 5/5
Service 5/5
Ambience 5/5
Value 4/5