Sinking back into one of the plush armchairs at The Phoenicia’s iconic Club Bar on a Friday night, I turned to my partner and mused, ‘we should do this more often’. In front of us, a pair of expertly put together cocktails glistened on the table, against the backdrop of the warm cocktail bar, which dates back to the 1950s and harks back to Malta’s colonial past.

Having arrived early for our eagerly anticipated dinner at The Phoenix Restaurant – the stunning main dining room at one of Malta’s finest luxury hotels – we chose to kick things off with a pre-dinner tipple… a fitting start to a memorable evening. 

Nearing the time for our reservation, we made our way to the restaurant, where the décor, inspired by the grand cafés of Europe, never fails to impress, whether it’s your first or your hundredth visit.

The service is at once friendly and polite, and we’re shown to our table with a flourish. As we mulled over the menu and debated our dinner choices, the table is presented with a complimentary tableau of local products. The gbejna, kunserva, olives and olive oil served with warm bread do the job of whetting our appetite, and it’s not long before our minds are made up and the food is ordered.

Sipping on a chilled glass of Mâcon village as we waited, talk turned to the opulent surroundings, which raised our expectations ever higher. Our starters arrived soon after – his, an original dish of Tête de Porc, which combines a terrine of pork with a subtle potato millefeuille. While the potato mellowed the flavour and texture of the pork, the accompanying pickled celery and xeres gave the dish a kick that added interest.

My choice of starter was a parsnip mousseline, with Avruga caviar and smoked eel, served with a sweet brioche, which I chose primarily for its originality. A unique dish that I haven’t come across before, I was pleasantly surprised by the combination of flavours and excellent plating. The brioche was warm and sweet, and made for a surprising and complimentary addition to the mousseline. The caviar, meanwhile, was as it should be – decadent and delicious, adding a distinct flavour to the dish.

It was soon time for the piece de resistance – the main course. Torn between the two fish-based options on the menu, I went on our affable server’s recommendation and selected a Seabass Confit with local shrimps, shrimp butter, broccoli and guanciale, and I wasn’t disappointed. Suffice to say that this was one of the best dishes I’ve had locally – and that’s quite the statement, given my borderline obsession with food. All the elements in the dish complemented each other well, and the treatment of the fish itself brought out an incredibly tender flavour.

My dining companion, meanwhile, chose the lamb rump with squash, kale, feta and black olive caramel, which he pronounced tender and full of flavour. Perfectly complemented with a kale base that added crunch and complexity to the dish, the creamed feta helped frame the flavour of the lamb – not an easy feat in such a rich dish! The meat was served pink, at just the right temperature, and that’s not to mention the roast potatoes on the side, which were cooked to perfection: crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside.

Rounding off the evening on a sweet note, I couldn’t resist sampling a goat’s cheese and ricotta cheesecake, which was a lovely way to end – tending to steer clear of overly sweet desserts, this was just right, creamy and rich in flavour, with a satisfying mix of textures.

Over on the other side of the table, my partner fell for the lemon souffle. While it came highly recommended by a few members of staff including the General Manager himself, my suspicion is that his love of lemon desserts was the main instigator behind the choice. He wasn’t disappointed either. Deliciously lemony, served piping hot with a fig ice cream on the side, he described it as the highlight of a great meal, comprising a lovely mixture of hot and cold, sweet and tart.

Needless to say, dinner at The Phoenicia’s Phoenix Restaurant is one I’d highly recommend – it ticks all the boxes for surroundings, food and service, and we’ll certainly be back!