There’s something very particular about Malta. Even though the island measures a mere 27 kilometres in length and its population numbered just a few hundred thousand inhabitants for the best part of its history, the Maltese have always found ways to create rivalries among themselves. Whether in party politics or sports, locals have kept themselves entertained by forming their own clubs and rites, nurturing a strong sense of belonging. Call it island life, but the Maltese love a bit of good old competition. Nothing highlights this trait more than their passion for saints and fireworks – their beloved festi!

Village feasts in Malta are a big deal, and leading the charge in organising, funding, setting up, decorating, and all-round celebrating are the band clubs (or każini), with at least two in most localities. These ancient de facto institutions are the HQ for the marching bands that play a central role in village life. They also act as social clubs where locals while away long, lazy evenings. Most of them remain authentic watering holes, offering a real slice of village life – and cuisine.

Każin tal-Banda San Gabriel, Hal Balzan A.D. 1920

We start in the centre of the island, in Balzan. At one end of the main village square, right opposite the church, stands the San Gabriel Band Club. This beautiful edifice, a country palazzo typical of the area, houses the musical society, as well as an unassuming yet very enjoyable restaurant, open most days of the week. The place is very popular with locals who gather here on weekdays to enjoy a snack or a no-frills meal. In fact, the każin is equipped with a fully-fledged kitchen serving grills, salads and a lovely selection of pizzas to suit anyone’s tastes. The central courtyard, with its orange trees and surrounding balcony, is the perfect setting for a relaxing evening during the warmer months.

Socjetà Sant’Andrija, Hal Lija

This band club is associated with the feast of Christ the Saviour in Lija, a charming village next door to Balzan, and the rivalry between the two feasts is real! The beautiful palazzo that houses this każin, with its imposing façade and typical architecture, is nestled in one of the streets just off the main square, so make sure to have it pinned beforehand or you might miss it. Once inside, find a table in the garden before grabbing yourself a beer or two. Don’t worry, the appetizers will soon start flowing.

Socjetà Filarmonika Nicolo Isouard, Mosta

The Nicolo Isouard Band Club takes its name from one of Malta’s most celebrated composers, who went on to make a name for himself in France in the 18th century. Housed within an elegant building right off the recently revamped Mosta square, it serves as a social club active in several areas related to the local community. At the back of the club is a bar and restaurant with a varied menu catering to all appetites and tastes. From pasta dishes to salads, pizzas and grills, the good folk in the kitchen are happy to provide a selection for all. However, the standout favourite here is the traditional Maltese-style rabbit, which they cook with love. Pro tip: call ahead to make sure it’s available, as they tend not to overstock, to ensure utmost freshness!

Soċjetà Filarmonika Vilhena, Floriana

Grand Master Antonio Manoel de Vilhena founded the suburb of Floriana outside the capital, Valletta. The band club established in the town took his name, as is customary in many places locally. During the day, the każin on St Anne Street, known as Gażin Vilhena, is possibly one of the best places to get a traditional ħobża biż-żejt – a local speciality consisting of a ftira (a local type of flat bread) filled with olive oil, tuna, olives, capers, tomato paste, and love! In the evenings, it has recently experienced somewhat of a renaissance, becoming a mecca for the younger generation who head here to enjoy jazz and live music nights. Housed beneath the arched walkways, the club makes good use of its location, providing an indoor/outdoor vibe to patrons, who will no doubt be savouring a glass of wine or three.

Għaqda Każin Banda San Filep, Żebbuġ

Returning to the centre of the island, this każin boasts the contested title of being the oldest band club in Malta. What’s certain is that the enormous, intricately decorated edifice is testament to the dedication and love of the club members to this society. The bar within is also expansive, welcoming people from all walks of life while remaining true to its age-old mission – to be a social space for the locals. As with all other każini, visitors are always welcome to enjoy a drink, cup of tea, or an expertly prepared ham and cheese toast, followed by something sweet to seal the deal.

St Joseph Band Club, Għajnsielem, Gozo

Venturing onto the sister island of Gozo, we arrive in Għajnsielem, overlooking the Mġarr Harbour, and make our way to the St Joseph Band Club. Here we indulge in teas, coffees, and most importantly, pastizzi! Be warned, this beloved spot is often the first stop for many Maltese visiting the island for the day, so it can get quite busy. It’s equally cherished by locals, who often enjoy a post-Sunday Mass snack on the surrounding patio, especially on clear days. To secure your cheese or pea pastizzi, which tend to sell out by mid-morning, it’s best to arrive early. Moreover, the restaurant within the band club offers a diverse menu, ranging from traditional dishes like spaghetti with rabbit to fish and chips, and lasagne.

Ta’ Francesco, Żebbuġ, Gozo

The tiny, picturesque village of Żebbuġ, which should not be confused with Ħaż-Żebbuġ in Malta, is situated atop one of the highest hills in Gozo. While it may not fit the typical definition of a band club, it serves as a multifunctional establishment – a social club, youth centre, parish hall, and restaurant – in the heart of the main square. The cuisine is authentically Gozitan, featuring passionately prepared home-cooked meals such as braġjoli (also known as beef olives) by patron Francesco and his family, offered at remarkably reasonable prices. The pizza selection is equally delightful, ranging from classic options to unique variations. However, the highlight of this establishment is undeniably the breath-taking view from the terrace, which overlooks the stunning valley below. Secure a table on the terrace and prepare for an unforgettable sunset dinner experience.

Socjetà Filarmonika Leone, Rabat, Gozo, A.D. 1863

Next, we journey to Gozo’s capital, Rabat, and head to one of the każini associated with the feast of the Ascension of Our Lady, celebrated in August each year. The building on the main street houses a large bar area, as well as an incredible Opera House adorned by the modernist Maltese artistic genius, Emvin Cremona. Together with the other band club in Rabat, they are responsible for a highly respected annual opera season. Back at the bar, the atmosphere is delightful. Under the watchful eye of the statue of Our Lady, patrons and tourists alike flock here for their tea in a glass or pint of brew, as they have done for many decades. At any time of the day, the Aurora Bistro Café offers a range of options to satisfy any craving, from gourmet breakfasts featuring selections like eggs Benedict, ftiras and bagels, to a variety of pasta and other dishes.

Società Filarmonica Nazionale La Valette, A.D. 1874

Returning to the mainland, we take a leisurely stroll down the main street of Valletta, Malta’s capital, to visit the La Valette Band Club. Housed within a beautiful late Baroque building, this każin invites visitors into its internal courtyard, bathed in natural light that is characteristic of Valletta palazzos. Despite the grandeur of the building, the atmosphere in the club is incredibly welcoming. Dining here is simple and affordable, with offerings including burgers, pasta and the ever-so classic ravioli with tomato sauce. If you’re only stopping for a drink or two, the friendly barman will ensure you have some homely snacks to accompany your beverage. In the background, the sound of snooker balls adds to the ambience, completing the scene at one of the island’s most iconic watering holes.

Qrendi Boċċi Club

Our final stop takes us to the deep south of the island, to the quaint village of Qrendi, home to a population of 3,148. Here, locals often enjoy a game of boċċi, a variation of marbles played with metal balls. In fact, they have a dedicated club for the sport, and the bar and restaurant annexed to the pitch is where all the magic happens. While not affiliated with a band, it offers a similarly authentic local experience, where you can indulge in authentic, Maltese-style cooked rabbit, fried in copious amounts of garlic and oil, accompanied by a generous serving of chips. Of course, if rabbit isn’t to your taste, the restaurant offers other meals, but the rabbit is undoubtedly the star attraction. Be sure to make a reservation, especially on weekends – you don’t want to drive all the way down to Qrendi to then be told they’re at capacity!

The article first appeared on Malta Insider 2024/2025.

Have you ever visited any of these każini?