Johann Farrugia, guardian of one of Valletta’s most iconic shops, explains how his business still provides a special something to the locals and tourists who visit
Walking into the iconic ‘Tal-Ħwawar’ shop in St Christopher Street, you are immediately greeted by the incredibly fragrant smell of spices. Cinnamon, cardamom, ginger and curry take hold of your senses as they send your olfactory system into a frenzy! This place is nirvana for anyone looking for the genuine, original experience of shopping for any herb, spice, flavour or scent. It is guaranteed to satisfy even the most obscure quest of the most exigent!
Behind the counter is Johann Farrugia, 64, who has been involved in the family business since his late teens. The shop opened its doors, originally in a smaller place on Triq tal- Ganċ, at the height of the British mercantile trade in Malta in the mid-20th century.
“Malta has always been a hub for trade, smack bang in the middle of the most important trade routes since antiquity. Additionally, herbs and spices have always been a much-sought commodity for many societies. So, the combination of these two elements has been natural, so to speak,” Johann explains.
“Since the time of the Knights, in fact, Malta has been at the centre of this trade for obvious reasons. My family established their interest right after the Second World War, as Malta’s economy started to open up to more adventurous avenues of operation.”
Quickly, Zammit tal-Ħwawar, still carrying Johann’s grandfather’s name, became a household name all throughout the island, and became a mecca for home cooks and more.
“Around Christmas, Easter time, but also all year round, our small shop on the corner of St John’s Street with St Paul’s, saw to the needs of families for many years, as we stocked herbs and spices that you otherwise wouldn’t find so easily anywhere else. This was a time preceding modern supermarkets or the economic boom that brought about a flourishing of shops across the island. Back then, Valletta was like one big shopping mall, and housewives would make their way here, typically using public transport, and spend the day shopping for their household needs, including specialised ingredients they knew they could only source from Zammit’s.”
Fast forward to 2022, and the business transferred a few blocks away to a larger shop, still in the same neck of the woods. “The move to the new premises was somewhat unexpected, however it was a great blessing in disguise,” Johann qualifies. “At the new place, while remaining loyal to authenticity and our roots, we introduced exciting new elements to the formula which have proved to be immensely popular. Most remarkably was the addition of a typically Maltese coffee shop next door, which works in tandem with the spices shop. A best seller of the coffee shop, in fact, is the typical Maltese coffee, which is made with chicory, anise and cloves.”
With a generous hunk of Maltese pudina (a bread-based confection) or maqrut (a dates-based pastry), a visit here is guaranteed to complete your tour of the capital.
Back in the spices shop, Johann remains adamant to serve customers the old way, still displaying the herbs and spices in large jars and containers and selling them by weight. “We make it a point to keep prepackaged goods to a minimum, selling most of our consumables by weight, wrapping them the old typical way. Ironically, the old way also happens to be the best, most sustainable way, as we keep plastic use to a minimum, and allow customers to even bring their own jars and bottles to fill, staying mindful of our environmental responsibilities.”
For Johann, creating a meaningful rapport with his clientele remains key in all he does. “Apart from selling herbs and spices from around the globe, we are in the business of creating relationships with our clients, some of which date back many decades indeed! We achieve this by making them feel that they aren’t just a number. We are aware that today, competition in our line of work is unprecedented, however we make it a point to provide a personalised service that exceeds the experience a customer can ever hope for from anywhere else. That, perhaps, is what keeps clients flocking in, and that is how we intend to keep it,” Johann concludes.
This feature forms part of The Laid Back Series by GuideMeMalta.com. Bringing to light unique characters, local traditions, and the beauty of old Malta, we search every corner of the Maltese islands to find the most unique of stories that are sure to delight and bring a sense of nostalgia to our readers.
Do you have a fascinating story to tell? Drop us a line at [email protected]
