In this edition of The Laid Back series, Edward Bonello meets some vendors at the famous Sunday morning Birgu market, as they share their passion for their trade.
There’s a magical place where time stands still each Sunday morning. It’s a snapshot in time, where amidst treasure and trash, people from all walks of life come together in Birgu’s old Fortini football ground to buy and sell all sorts of things. From Demis Roussos vinyls, an infinity of random crockery, second hand clothes, brand new toys and tools in good working order – this is where you will find that thing you had no idea you needed in your life so much.
The Sunday morning Birgu car boot sale, is certainly the largest flea market of its kind on the island – Malta’s reply to Rome’s Porta Portese, or London’s Portobello, if you will. So it’s no surprise that regular buyers and sellers have over the years built a special rapport with each other, as their transactions go beyond the odd old rare book, or framed lemonade poster.
“We have been setting up shop here for five years,” says Anna, 63, who together with her husband run a small stall in the centre of the market. “They refer to us as ‘tal-kotba’, (the book vendors), since we specialise in old books, both local in Maltese, as well as foreign, typically in English. We started selling old books we would have read, and had no space for in our collection, but soon we had to start sourcing them as we quickly ran out!” she explains.
“It’s the ultimate form of recycling, giving a new life to something which otherwise would have ended up in the landfill. Unfortunately, books aren’t as popular as they were until recently, as the younger generation are not as interested in owning books as much. They consume their information differently,” Anna smiles, “But we remain determined to cater for what has become a niche market.”
Up the lane is Simon, 54, who is a bit of an icon of the market. In fact, he is a collector of old photos, all things paper, memorabilia, coins, badges and medals, photos, posters and loads more! His impressive stall at the market is the overflow from his collection: given this, one can only imagine how remarkable it must be!
“I’ve been setting up in this same spot for the past 20 years,” Simon declares, as he explains the provenance of an old black and white photo to an interested customer. “My passion for collections started when I was just 10, as I used to collect anything I could get my hands on. I started collecting old photos, documents and anything made of paper. Quickly my collection evolved into anything ephemera, or items which aren’t designed to be preserved, but are attributed value by collectors. Today, I enjoy coming to the Birgu flea market to meet fellow collectors, and trade items. For me it’s more than a job, as I enjoy it very much!” Simon adds.
Equally enthusiastic to be at the market is Safwan, 54, originally from Syria, but who has been in Malta for many years. “I’ve been setting up at the market from its very first days, some 25 years ago. I get here every Sunday at 5am, so I wake up even earlier,” he notes. It is no surprise really, because Safwan’s spot is probably the very best in all the market – right at the very beginning, opposite the entrance.
“This is not very different from running a normal shop. You need to be nice to customers, know how to handle the over-demanding ones, keep a healthy, friendly relationship with them, and the rest flows automatically.”
Asked about hackling customers, he smiles that it’s part of the game. “Hackling is part of the experience of being at a market like this, so we are used to it. You can’t take it personally,” he remarks. “Being at the market gives me satisfaction, but it is also a source of income, so it all works out in the end,” Safwan says.
Arthur, 55, specialises in copper items, and his stall is certainly the shiniest in the whole market. “Copper has special properties, and I believe it emanates positive energy. No wonder that the wealthy people of old used to use the material for anything,” he declares. “I source the items, some of which can be very old indeed, from old collections and house sales. Then I make sure to clean them up really well, to get them to shine and shimmer at their very best!”
Arthur’s stall looks great on a bright summer day, when the sun is out in its full power, hammering down on the beautifully decorated copper plates, dolphin door knockers, elaborate chandeliers and other ornamental articles.
“At the market we have developed a community,” Arthur tells me, as he jokes with the vendor across the lane. “We look out for each other, and when a regular doesn’t set up, we check in on them. Being here every blessed Sunday of the year does that.”
Carlo, 48, is another mainstay of the Fortini flea market. His specialisation is certainly vinyls and collectibles, and if you are looking for that rare Pink Floyd album you’re missing, he’s likely to be your guy to help you locate it!
“This is just the tip of the iceberg. At home I have a tonne more vinyls and records. It takes a great deal of time to sort them out, and categorise them by style, and value. When you purchase this sort of thing, you often get a mixed bag, but then you need to go through them, and make sure to offer them to your customers in a way that is convenient and easy to flip through. It really is a labour of love,” Carlo notes.
Tucked under the protection of his iconic umbrellas, Carlo is always happy to share his knowledge and expertise about his passions – music and collectibles.
Be it old toys, books, framed holy pictures or handy tools you need, the Birgu flea market will certainly satisfy your needs. And if that’s not what you’re after, it certainly a great alternative outing for your Sunday morning.
This feature forms part of The Laid Back Series by GuideMeMalta.com. Bringing to light unique characters, local traditions, and the beauty of old Malta, we search every corner of the Maltese islands to find the most unique of stories that are sure to delight and bring a sense of nostalgia to our readers.
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