A new book out on local stands lists 111 must see places on the islands.
Fabrizio Ardito and Emons Verlag GmbH (publisher)
There is no doubt that 111 is a strange number. In this era of social media, headlines tend to scream the smaller integers of 5, 6, 7 and 10, like desperate calls at the tombola table. So, travel journalist Fabrizio Ardito’s 111 Places in Malta That You Shouldn't Miss may come as something of a surprise. Are there really so many and, if so, which are they?
Upon further inspection, it turns out that this is a compendium of everything interest-worthy related to Malta. The 111 in the title does not so much refer to actual sites and locales (though there are plenty of those as well) as it does to well-known customs, historical anecdotes and popular snacks. And if Twistees is a place, just buy us a one-way ticket! “Whether it’s with the clock used to deceive the Devil, the alleys of Game of Thrones, the traces of Corto Maltese or the archipelago’s natural arches, these small and inimitable islands will surprise you 111 times, at least!” Fabrizio says in his foreword. Here, I take a look at five (yes, five) of my favourite places mentioned in Fabrizio's book – and add some details you may not have known about!
1. Elvis Tribute Bar
The King is alive! In Bugibba, at any rate. Fabrizio’s tome describes the Elvis impersonators who make their way to this watering hole in the tourist hub and perform “amidst Maltese snacks, 1980s-style disco lights and old-fashioned but spectacular garments. The walls of the bar are decorated with posters, photos, album covers, T-shirts, flags and all kinds of Presley-related memorabilia.” He calls the shows a “resounding success” but warned you need to book your spot months in advance in order to get a look in! Malta’s love affair with Elvis is well-known, and popular local act Freddie Portelli brought long sideburns, swinging hips and jazzy sounds into the mainstream, becoming a household name in the process.
2. St Mary’s Tower
Much is made of the “massive” tower in Comino due to its role in Kevin Reynolds’ The Count of Monte Cristo – and it’s not hard to see why. The fortress doubled as the Chateau d’If in the film and still stands strong overseeing the small island’s shores. The author notes it was very expensive to build, back in 1618, “probably due to its inconvenient position, the fact that it’s 12 metres tall and the small detail of its imposing walls that are as thick as six metres in some parts.” This place is, indeed, not easy to get to, but that was made purposely so.
3. Gozo's door knockers
Nestled in the heart of Gozo – in the capital Victoria to be more precise – the San Gorg neighbourhood is a knot of streets, with old limestone houses, colourful doors and bold knockers. They may be Instagram-worthy, but they also invite you to get your nose off your phone and do some proper looking. It seems the metal animals perched on the wooden apertures, dedicated to St George, are what caught the writer’s attention. “There are dolphins and putti, geometric shapes and rings, hands clenched in fists and metal balls and they are all meant to honour the memory of St George; the Maltese smiths have really gone to town!” he exclaims in the one-page summary. But, many more distinctive doors can be found all over the island – so much so that Malta Doors has made it their mission to track each and every one down!
4. Nelson Street in Bormla
Lord Admiral Nelson knew a thing or two about the sea. And it also seems he knew a thing or two about Malta, having landed on the island in 1800, just as the French left. “He dropped anchor at Marsaxlokk, and that’s when his period in Malta began,” says Fabrizio. “He visited the Blue Grotto and spent long days in Gozo… went to live by himself, not far from the docks where his ships were anchored. Legend has it that the steep Nelson Street, which descends from the walls of Bormla towards the seafront, derives its name from the fact that the admiral once lived here.” And Admiral Nelson must have felt pretty pleased with himself while on the island – he was instrumental in helping the Maltese rid themselves of Napoleon’s men and become the British protectorate it remained until 1964.
5. Triq Sant’Orsla and Corto Maltese
Left: cortomaltese_fanpage / Instagram; Right: patmff / Instagram
The famed series of graphic novels, Corto Maltese, written by Italian comic book artist Hugo Pratt, told the adventures on the high seas of a sea captain, born in Valletta in 1887 to a British father and a Sevillian mother (Malta was always a melting pot!) It was a resounding success, and many have been curious about the links the intrepid traveller had with Malta. “After spending his childhood between Gibraltar and Cordoba our hero returned to Malta where he spent a few years studying under the fickle guidance of Rabbi Ezra Toledano,” Fabrizio tell us.
While admitting that no one knows where the lessons took place, he proposes Triq Sant’Orsla (Ursula Street) as a possible site due to the presence of a synagogue which once stood here “and is credited for the rebirth of the Maltese Jewish community.” Wherever in Valletta Corto really trod, he is set to return this year in a theatrical production based on the 1967 Corto Maltese: Una Ballata del Mare Salato on the 20th and 22nd September at Malta’s National Theatre, Teatru Manoel. Tickets here.