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A lifetime dedicated to Malta's traditional dghajsa
Retired dghajsa driver Walter Ahar reveals the history behind Malta’s water taxi, and the famous passengers he’s ferried in it, from Prince Philip to Janet Jackson.

Lisa Borain

Malta Tourism Authority. Walter Ahar in his dghajsa with Fort Saint Angelo in the background.

Walter Ahar is a 78 year-old retired dghajsa driver who now co-runs the Koperattiva tal-Barklori - a co-operative of boat owners who try to preserve the few remaining dghajsas on the Maltese Islands. A traditional water taxi from Malta, the design of the dghajsa (dghajjes in plural), like that of another Maltese boat, the luzzu, dates back to Phoenician times. Its decorative symbols vary from boat to boat, and it has been altered over time, especially during British rule in Malta.

Lisa Borain

The difference between a Venetian gondola and a dghajsa is the twisted shape of the gondola to function on one oar. The dghajsa is propelled by one man standing, facing forward, and pushing on two oars. The high stem and stern pieces are ornamental, yet useful in handling the boat and in the boarding and disembarking of passengers.

Originally, dghajjes were mainly used in the Grand Harbour area to carry passengers and small baggage from ships to shore. Now they're used to ferry passengers from Senglea (aka Isla) to Valletta - a beautiful seven-minute trip that would otherwise take about 45 minutes via bus.

Walter Ahar's partner, Freddie Abela, ferries Charles, Prince of Wales across the harbour. 

During the times of the British rule, members of the navy would need a quick dispatch from or to the shore and would employ a dghajsa. Members of the royal family and famous people throughout history have often used a dghajsa to get from here to there. In fact, Walter himself has had the pleasure of ferrying Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, as well as Janet Jackson, while his partner Freddie Abela hosted Charles, Prince of Wales in his dghajsa.

While the harbour was once full of them, today only about 12 original dghajjes survive, most of them motorised by diesel engines.

Walter - along with a group of spritely older men who also accompanied him on the interview - has been working on dghajjes since the age of eight (that's 70 years ago!) and driving since the age of 18. He would return from school at four o'clock to immediately join his seafaring uncle in the dghajsa. And he wasn't alone - he was amongst various other children his age also in the same boat (not literally). These children have all grown as Walter has, and now sit with us under the awning of Walter's restaurant in Senglea, Tal-Barklor ('Of the boatman').

Lisa Borain. From left to right: Joe Formosa, Walter Ahar, Doris Abela, Carmel Farrugia (aka 'Lard'), Joe Zammit (aka 'Swordfish'). 

Walter says, "there a few dghajjes left now because the maintenance is very costly. There are only three companies left in Malta who have the skill to build these boats."

It was an interesting time; the Grand Harbour full of Royal Navy ships and the shore crawling with thousands of British sailors.

One of the men - Carmel Farrugia (aka 'Lard') jokes, "you had to be really strong to drive a dghajsa, because you had to be able to stop British sailors from falling overboard after having a few too many at the shore".

Now, the mens' sons have taken over the ferrying of the boats, and take passengers around the harbour to catch the magnificent sights of Fort Saint Angelo, Kalkara, Fort Rinella, Fort Ricasoli, Fort Saint Elmo, and Valletta. During their seven minutes of travel, passengers receive a brief description and explanation of what they're looking at. They then arrive in Valletta and take the lift or the tunnel to reach the heart of the city. The boats operate up until force five winds, and won't go out if the weather is dangerous.

Walter now spends his days hanging out with the crowd at his restaurant. Originally a bar called Manchester Conquest, the restaurant has been open since 1944 and was frequented by Royal Navy sailors. When the restaurant's name has changed to Tal-Barklor, the Manchester Conquest name was transferred to the bar next door, which is a lively pub heaving with locals and tourists alike.

Why not pop in for a drink before heading to the capital in one of the few dghajjes left on your visit?

10th April 2018


Lisa Borain
Written by
Lisa Borain
Lisa is a copywriter/editor with an adventurous interest and penchant for all things Malta.

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