Catacombs, Rabat
When the heat gets too much, head underground. St Paul’s Catacombs in Rabat is at the heart of an extensive complex of over 30 hypogea outside what would have been the Roman city of Melite, now Mdina. Dating back to the third century BC, the catacombs were first used by Pagans but would later accommodate people from different religions alongside each other. Round the corner is the equally fascinating Wignacourt Catacombs which include St Paul’s Grotto, one of the most venerated sites in Malta: this is where it is believed St Paul stayed when he was shipwrecked on the island in 60AD. The network of catacombs extends into a subterranean labyrinth of World War II shelters. Centuries of history to explore and hours of fun exploring it in a civilised temperature at least 15 degrees cooler than poolside.
Staying underground, but going even further back in time, to 4000 BC to be precise. This unique site is the only prehistoric burial site open to the public, albeit for a very restricted number of visitors per day. The complex of interconnecting rock-cut chambers features intricate red ochre wall paintings and beautifully carved architectural designs. The hypogeum is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list as “a site that bears a unique testimony to a cultural tradition which has disappeared.” It’s refreshingly cool down there but also very slippery due to high humidity, so leave your sandals behind and wear practical, preferably closed shoes for this one.
What you really want when the mercury rises is some respite in air-conditioned bliss. Step inside the cool, purpose-built panoramic auditorium of this award-winning audiovisual show and enjoy a whistle-stop tour of Malta’s chequered history in 45 minutes. Your ticket includes a visit to La Sacra Infermeria across the road, formerly the hospital of the Knights of St John, now more commonly known as the Mediterranean Conference Centre and boasting one of the longest halls in Europe. Also very cool, in more ways than one.
These old buildings must have been a nightmare to warm up in the damp, cold winters, but are a relief in summer when their thick walls protect the interior from the blistering heat outside. Malta’s 500 year old Inquisitor’s Palace is the only such palace open to the public anywhere in the world, and offers a glimpse into the powers once held by the Catholic church. Look out for the graffiti in the prison cells.
No holiday to Malta is complete without a visit to this gem of a church, and I promise you it is well worth peeling yourself off the beach towel for this one. It is superlatively beautiful in every way, from the elaborate stone carvings to the carpet of inlaid marble, not to mention the two priceless Caravaggio paintings. While it’s shorts and bikini weather outside, shoulders must be covered and hemlines dropped indoors, as this popular tourist attraction is also a consecrated church.
Perched atop a hill, the medieval walled city of Mdina always seems to be somewhat breezier than anywhere else, which is good news on a balmy summer evening. Never mind the fact that its museums and all other attractions would be shut at night, this is the best time to enjoy the coolest historic experience ever, walking through Mdina’s ancient streets to soak up its magical atmosphere under the stars.
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