From hidden eateries to a weekly market, here's an insider’s guide to some secret gems within Birgu, also known as Vittoriosa.
The fortified city of Birgu, also known as Vittoriosa, actually pre-dates Valletta, and yet has become a lot less commercial over the years. You can find snippets of truly authentic Maltese life in Birgu, when walking around the beautiful back streets and visiting some of these off-the-beaten-track spots.
Tal-Petut
If you're looking for a taste of authentic Maltese cuisine, here's the place to try. While a lot of establishments offer the island's culinary staples, many of them are tourist traps, which the Maltese themselves wouldn't frequent. There’s no a la carte menu at Tal-Petut, instead, you'll find a daily menu for all patrons, available at a set price (which isn't extortionate). You get loads of little dishes, each recipe prepared with local and seasonal produce that's sourced daily and "freshly prepared within hours of purchase". Don't go if you're not hungry. Luckily, the streets are not steeped, so if rolling is necessary to make your way home, you're looking at even surfaces.
St Lawrence Band Club, Market Square
Although this band club is not literally off the beaten track (it’s actually on the main road in Birgu), it’s not a place that will be found in guide books and recommendation sites. Unique to Birgu, the 19th century converted large house with a magnificent facade holds an old-school bar inside, which spills out into a charming courtyard. Here, you can grab a bite or a drink while taking in the quaint little spot, complete with a statue of Virgin Mary looking down on all visitors.
3 Il-Forn Art Gallery & Hostel
This hugely quaint and colourful converted farmhouse is impressive, with its funky artwork and quirky trinkets. Up until 2016, Il-Forn was run as an Art Gallery & Wine Bar, while now the space is an art gallery (to view by appointment) and hostel. Within 400 square metres over two separate levels and a huge indoor courtyard, the rooms are quirky, and decorated with hundreds of paintings by prominent artist Clemens Hasengschwandtner.
4 Birgu Flea Market
On Sunday mornings, within the Fortini grounds just outside Birgu’s city walls, you’ll find a bustling sprawl of hawkers and buyers. Even if you’re not interested in the bizarre mix of quirky and often kitsch items for sale, it’s an absolutely fascinating people-watching opportunity. Get there early though, as the most eager are there upon opening to snap up all the best bargains.
5 Etienne’s Kitchen & Yacht Lounge
This restaurant is easily missed, as it’s at the very end of the Birgu Waterfront, which is further than most gander. The cavernous inside is just as interesting as the outside, as it’s carved into the walls of Fort St Angelo. The outside location is absolutely magnificent, as it’s right on an inlet by the water’s edge, while a gloriously enormous age-old limestone arch juxtaposes the modern St Angelo Mansion apartment buildings. Even if you're not a history fiend, you have to wonder what these old walls would whisper.