Food & Wine
Quest for the best: octopus stew
A search for the tastiest iconic octopus stew (stuffat tal-qarnit) on the island.

Lisa Borain

Slow-cooked, octopus stew (stuffat tal-qarnit in Maltese) is easily one of Malta's tastiest dishes. Octopus has and still is quite easily found off Maltese shores, and the other typically Mediterranean ingredients – onions, garlic, tomatoes, olives, capers and wine - make this a truly native dish. Sometimes, the rich flavoursome tomato sauce of the stew is served with pasta as a first course, eaten with potatoes as a main, or simply served with crusty bread.

While searching for the best octopus stew on the island, I came across a surprising number of restaurants which I thought would serve octopus stew that actually offer fried octopus instead. And unhelpfully, when asking my local experts where to find the ultimate stuffat tal-qarnit, a lot of them replied with, "my mother's house", and well, that's probably because it's true. This is one of those recipes that gets passed down from generation to generation, honing in on maximising the familiar Mediterranean flavours to their fullest potential.

Apart from the most voted for (which I'll reveal soon), I received four other recommendations which made sense and are worthy of noting - all four are well established Maltese cuisine restaurants which have proven themselves to be truly authentic (and not to mention good value for money!)

Ta' Kris

Ta' Kris Restaurant in Sliema is located off the beaten track, in a side street adjacent to Bisazza Street (in the alleyway next to Pizza Hut), so you'd only see the signs on the street, and could even miss it if you weren't looking for it. Along with other wholesome typical Maltese recipes, they offer a gorgeous version of octopus stew with beer, apples and walnuts.

La Maltija

One of the few restaurants in St Julian's serving traditional Maltese food, La Maltija offers a cosy, authentic atmosphere with its thick limestone walls, wooden beams and decorative Maltese knick-knacks. Fun fact: Chef Patron Charles Spiteri was the personal chef of the former President of Malta, as well as none other than Margaret Thatcher. Here, they offer an octopus casserole, which is slow stewed octopus in a tomato, black olive and potato based casserole.

D' Office Bistro

D' Office in Valletta is one of those quaint little bistros in the city's side streets. Their fish dishes change daily depending on market availability, and they offer amazing pasta dishes, along with a selection of grills. Their traditional stew is done with octopus slow-cooked in white wine, carrots, onions, mixed herbs, cherry tomatoes, potatoes and black olives, and finished in fish stock and a touch of tomato sauce.

Tal-Familja

Tal-Familja is a family-run restaurant that offers a large veranda overlooking the Marsascala countryside, while inside, three dining areas are adorned with paintings and memorabilia in a Maltese rustic style, with stone shelves, books, and fascinating eclectic whatnots. Their octopus stew is a highly traditional one, cooked with mint, olives, capers, garlic, potatoes and tomato sauce.

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And now for the winner: The Medina Restaurant

The final consensus was that The Medina Restaurant in Mdina offers the tastiest octopus stew of all, and I needed no further excuse to go and find out for myself. It's been a while since I've visited The Medina, and certainly not since it's been taken over by Infinitely Xara (same owners as The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux). Getting there is quaint in itself, as walking through the Medieval streets of Mdina, illuminated by warm glowing lanterns takes you back in time. An original Norman residence, the restaurant is full of Romanesque features, and with the honey coloured stone walls and a pretty internal courtyard with classic garden attributes, you're further taken back to another era.

The à la carte menu is based on both local and Mediterranean cuisine, prepared in a traditional way. Having said that, the octopus stew included a few interesting ingredients which you don't usually find in the conventional stew, including raisins, apples and roasted walnuts - and it certainly goes down a treat!

The Medina Restaurant

So while a quest for the best of any dish will always be subjective, The Medina offers an impressive version of Malta's much-loved octopus stew. Along with a remarkable stew and a charming Maltese experience with its setting and location, The Medina is definitely worth a visit.

Have you tried The Medina’s famed octopus stew? Do you agree, or are you positive you’ve had better? Let us know your favourites (besides your nanna’s) in the comments below!


Lisa Borain
Written by
Lisa Borain
Lisa is a copywriter/editor with an adventurous interest and penchant for all things Malta.