Yes. I'm talking about potatoes. And yes, I'm going to tell you to drop everything this Sunday, 27th May, forget the beach, and urge you to head to this beautiful, small village in the southwest of Malta to sink your teeth into some of the best potatoes you will taste anywhere in Europe. 

Actually, I should qualify that statement because you may be one of the lucky few hailing from the Netherlands, Germany, Sweden or Tenerife who can buy Maltese potatoes in their local supermarkets. Only once was I lucky enough to spot Maltese potatoes in my local Migros supermarket in central Switzerland, and I almost cried with pride in the middle of the vegetable aisle. And they all come from Qrendi. 

From rösti to roasties, pommes frites to mash, potatoes are a universal go-to comfort food, the basis of hearty, wholesome, home-cooking. And, as any Briton would tell you, it all starts with the right potato. And what, I hear you ask, makes Maltese potatoes so special?

I asked the same question to Michael Caruana, who at the tender age of 30, is established as Malta’s largest potato producer, exporting around 500 tonnes of potatoes from his 20 hectares. Born and bred in Qrendi from a family of potato and vegetable farmers, Michael shot to fame a few years ago with the immortal words “I have potato blood in my veins”. 

And, speaking to him right in the middle of harvesting, I could see for myself that he does, indeed, have an undying passion for his produce.

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He attributes the unique taste of his potatoes entirely to the sea air. “Thank god we live on such a small island and our fields are so close to the sea. Our climate is dominated by the sea, and that affects the taste of any vegetables, including potatoes. It definitely makes for a better taste,” insists Michael. 

As the mayor of Qrendi David Schembri explains, “Qrendi is synonymous with potato harvesting as the local rich, red soil has the right characteristics for potato cultivation. The abundance of carob trees and rubble walls help to shelter the crops from winds.” 

Michael literally grew up in the potato fields. His mother’s side of the family are all farmers, and he learnt the trade through his grandparents and uncles. By the age of 14 he quit school, started working full-time in the fields and has not looked back since. “It’s very difficult work,” admits Michael. “Machinery only helps so much. We switched from a purely manual system to a more modern system which enabled us to grow our business. We started out with just two or three hectares. Today I have almost 20 hectares and we keep adding fields every year.”

However this growth also brings bigger headaches for Michael, who taught himself everything to do with producing, selling, trading and marketing his precious potatoes. “Books teach you only so much. I learnt a lot through work experience. I grew up working in the fields, so at my age I already have a lot of experience,” says Michael. “Fields in Malta are divided into small patches, and each field has a different story.”

But Michael laments that not enough youngsters are choosing farming as a career option. “In Malta this is a big problem. People do not want to work as farmers because it is very hard work.”

And while you're there...

The entire village is proud of Qrendi’s potato and farming heritage. But this is not its only claim to fame. Qrendi may not have featured on your guide book, but I bet you’ve already heard of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra Temples, the oldest free-standing structures in the world. Well, they’re in Qrendi too. And you’ll be able to visit these UNESCO World Heritage Sites at a special entry fee of €2 during the festival on board a fun-train that will take visitors around the village’s many historic attractions.

Before you get distracted by the food stalls laden with all manner of potato-based goodies (the potato ice-cream is a must!) take a peek inside Gnien il-Kmand, the experimental garden established in the early 1800s by Sir Alexander Ball, the first governor of Malta. This is where the first potato seeds were trialled in the early days of British rule, when the new colonisers needed to find a stable crop to feed the population. They started experimenting with different potato seeds to see which ones would adapt to the Maltese conditions and climate. Today, the garden, which is normally open only by appointment, is full of oranges, lemons, olives, pomegranates and prickly pear, among others.

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And when you’ve had your fill of history, culture and potatoes, you can marvel at the classic and vintage cars on display, the police dogs showing off their super obedience skills and some clever falconry, a tradition associated with medieval times but most especially with the Knights of St John. Make friends with a local who can translate the spontaneous folk songs whose lyrics are not written but created there and then, or tune in to Malta’s Eurovision entrant Christabelle, who will also be performing. Oh, and don’t forget to go and say hello to Michael, whose passion for potatoes is infectious!

The sixth edition of the Qrendi Potato and Agrarian Festival is on 27th May from 8am at Maqluba Square.