Culture
Malta's own traditional feast of the dead? Discover the intriguing L-Ghid tal-Erwieh
While Halloween has been adopted in Malta quite recently, the mysterious L-Ghid tal-Erwieh is strangely related.

Melanie Drury

Addolorata / Malta

They can’t all be wrong. Several spiritual or religious traditions commemorate the bridge between life and death, especially in these days between 31 October and 2 November. While Halloween has been adopted in Malta quite recently, the mysterious Maltese festival L-Ghid tal-Erwieh - equivalent to the Christian festival ‘All Souls Day’ or the Mexican 'Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead)'- on 2 November celebrates life, and the dead in the afterlife.

Untitled

However, before peeking into the Maltese traditions associated with this festival, let’s take a look at the roots.

The name Ghid for this festival is an interesting choice of word in the Maltese language. But first, it feels appropriate to mention the overlap of religious cultures already evident in the Maltese language, such as the word for God: Alla, that’s so much like the Islamic Allah yet within a Catholic faith.

Eid ul Adha 2013

Ghid is pronounced "Eid" like Eid al-Adha, an Islamic festival commemorating Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his own son at God’s command, only to be finally redeemed from the suffering. But L-Ghid is the Maltese word for Easter, the Christian festival commemorating the death and resurrection of Jesus, God’s own son, and his sacrifice to redeem mankind from sin. The parallels in the theme of the two stories - the two sons, sacrifice, redemption, and (new) life from death - are, let’s just say, interesting to observe.

Another interesting observation is that Ghid in Maltese also means ‘say’ and we can see how the language ties in with different stories of life-giving creation. In the Hindu Upanishads, Om is the first manifestation, the ‘cosmic sound’ that contains the creative power of the universe that gives life to form. In the Gospel of John 1:1, it is stated: ‘In the beginning was the Word...’ and 1:14 “The Word became flesh”. Mere coincidence?

Om

In any case, the Easter of Souls is aligned with these themes of sacrifice, redemption and celebration, death and (new) life, the dead and the living - similarly to Hallowe’en, All Hallow’s Eve, and the original Celtic festival of Samhain, as we continue to draw parallels between spiritual traditions.

Stonehenge

In the Maltese tradition, L-Ghid tal-Erwieh, or L-Ghid l-Erwieh, was dedicated to remembrance of the departed and their redemption (familiar?). Particularly, the souls in purgatory would get redemption from the sacrificial offerings of the living so that they could 'rise' to a 'new life' in heaven. These would come through prayer, charity and even the offerings of sumptuous feasts and celebrations.

L-aktar monument li laqgħatni

Indeed, the festival was traditionally celebrated with a feast of food, drink and merriment known as l-ikla tal-erwieh. The well-to-do and well-cultured enjoyed it as an occasion to debate on the mysteries of life and death in an atmosphere of celebration and indulgence dedicated to the souls of the departed.

The Last Supper

But it wasn’t just about gluttony; it was also about charity offered ‘for all souls’ or ghall-erwieh. It is still very common to hear this expression when one feels they have received some grace, mercy or favour. Typically, the community would donate vegetables into a large pot of soup cooked on sticks and stones by Franciscan monks to make il-minestra tal-erwieh.

(It's Hard To Be a Saint In The City)

Roast pork, however, is the traditional food most closely associated with this festival. Traditionally, prior to the festival, a pig or sow known as il-hanzira tal-erwieh would be released into the village to be fed and fattened by the people and then sold, then the funds would be distributed to the poor as an offering for the souls.

Portrait of a Sarda Pig (Sardinia, Italy)

Masked fraternities would also take to the streets on these days to collect funds for a mass for departed souls and their families. A brother with a covered face, ghost-like in appearance, represented the soul and the mystery of the ‘other life’. Such symbols were common. The skull, for example, was a symbol of death or the end of life on this earth, and would appear on many festival decorations. One can’t help but be reminded of Halloween.

good friday: silence

Indeed, some believe that Halloween as it is celebrated today is a carnivalesque representation of this original concept, where every celebration, every meal and every act of charity is a prayer for the redemption of the souls in purgatory. Eating, drinking and masquerading as ghosts and skeletons was a ritual for remembering the cycle of birth and death, and those that have departed.

Ghadam tal-mejtin

The most popular remnant of this festival today is a traditional Maltese bone-shaped sweets l-ghadam tal-mejtin that are only available in November, the month of souls. Interestingly, it is the same as the traditional Easter sweet figolla but in the shape of bones! Traditionally, there was also the sweet-stuffed napkin or is-sarvetta mimlija bil-helu too.

Cimiterju ta' l- Addolorata

Some effort is being made to revive this traditional Maltese festival, if with a twist. This evening Heritage Malta is inviting the public on a strange journey of remembrance rituals. The special event will include a talk in Maltese about the popular traditions of l-Ghid tal-Erwieh and the associated beliefs in souls and the afterlife, with intriguing revelations about the Addolorata Cemetery on its 150th Anniversary year. This will be followed by a traditional supper and a sleep-over at the reputedly haunted Inquisitor’s Palace in Birgu.

Malta, Vittoriosa / Birgu

Spooky!

1st November 2019


Melanie Drury
Written by
Melanie Drury
Melanie was born and raised in Malta and has spent a large chunk of her life travelling solo around the world. Back on the island with a new outlook, she realised just how much wealth her little island home possesses.

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