I’ve been following fish4tomorrow for a while, more specifically their From Our Sea events – in which the NGO teams up with a selection of the best local chefs and restaurants to create one-off menus using sustainable seafood. Want a way to get the attention of a country of food worshippers? This is certainly it!

How it all began

Director JD Farrugia describes fish4tomorrow’s aim as “promoting a culture of sustainable fishing and sustainable seafood consumption,” and since the organisation was first formed in 2010, it’s been working towards achieving its objectives through a mixture of scientific research, advocacy work, and information/education campaigning.

“When talking about sustainable seafood, we base a lot of our work on our Quickfish Guide, which is a tool we published to help people make environmentally-conscious seafood choices,” JD explains.

An idea is born

“Once we launched the Quickfish Guide we were trying to think of different ways of promoting sustainable fish. Many of the species we recommend in the guide are not as commonly consumed as tuna or salmon for example. Through our research, we also learnt that people eat most of their seafood at restaurants. This is how we came up with the concept of From Our Sea,” he maintains.

“We started to approach some of the best chefs and restaurants around the island and challenged them to create a one-off menu using only seafood which is recommended in the Quickfish guide. People book a place at these events knowing only that they’re going to be enjoying a meal of fresh, local, seasonal and sustainable seafood cooked in the style of the chef curating that particular event” – that’s right, no peeks at the menu beforehand!

The reason behind the secrecy, JD says, is for people to have the opportunity to try fish which they might not have considered before, and “it also shows the chefs and restaurant owners that fish like mackerel could be as popular with restaurant-goers as any other ‘prized’ fish.”

Amongst the Vines with Marilù Vella

The most recent From Our Sea event took place earlier this month, and having been to a couple already, I truly believe it’s one of the best yet! Past events have seen the team pair up with Emma’s Kitchen, Rocksalt and L-Artiglio to name a few, and this time, it was Pastizzi Gourmet’s Marilu Vella.

From Our Sea’s Amongst the Vines with Marilù Vella provided an altogether different experience, largely thanks to the location: al fresco, within a vineyard in Siggiewi, which diners needed a map to get to. A truly magical spot for a summer evening dinner.

The four-course menu kicked off with Marilu’s trademark pastizzi, featuring two takes on sardine filling: the first with caramelised onion, tomatoes and black olives, and the second with cauliflower, spring onion and basil. Both were equally delicious, and showcased the sardines – a fish I’d have erstwhile been hesitant about – to perfection.

Taking a seat at our shared table, we were presented with a starter of gazpacho with grilled calamari, which was a refreshing treat on a warm summer evening. The main course was to follow, and this is where the talented Marilu really shone. The fish in question was an Atlantic mackerel, which had been marinated in chermoula and baked in a wood-oven on site. Served whole, the fish was delicate and tender, and perfectly complemented by an assortment of sides, which included baked potatoes, a spinach salad with labneh, and the most delicious roasted cherry tomatoes and Greek yoghurt mix. Finally, a fresh summer dessert of caramelised strawberry with honey mascarpone and meringues brought a sweet end to the night.

The chef behind it all

Marilu Vella recalls attending the first From Our Sea dinner, and says she fell in love with the concept immediately.

“Since that dinner, I’ve been carrying their small Quickfish Guide with me and trying to order and eat sustainable fish. You would think that it limits your diet, but since then, I’ve discovered fish that are not so commonly found in restaurants but are actually sustainable, such as mackerel and sardines, and have included them in my recipes at home,” she says.

The idea for Marilu’s own pop-up dinner came about last year, while she was chatting with JD. “We waited until the weather was better and started planning around June. The experience was really magical. I loved doing my research and testing out recipes to come up with the menu. I worked with the local fishmonger and farmers, which ensured that I had the best ingredients for the dinner,” she says, adding that as much as she enjoys experimenting with new food and foreign cuisine, she also firmly believes in supporting local produce. “Most of the vegetables used were grown in or around Siggiewi. Most were certified organic or in the process of being converted to organic,” she says.

What’s next for fish4tomorrow?

While the organisation will continue to organise From Our Sea events whenever the opportunity arises, JD reveals that there are many other ideas they’d like to pursue moving forward. “First of all, we’re in the process of updating the Quickfish Guide, as it is something that needs to be done every few years. We are also working on some exciting things with other entities like the Mediterranean Culinary Academy. As a civil society organisation we always welcome the help and support of people interested in what we’re doing, so we’re also hoping that our team will continue to grow too,” he says.

While there is no concrete programme for the pop-up dinners, the best way to keep up to date with the latest announced events is by following fish4tomorrow on Facebook or Instagram.