Waves are created when wind blows across the surface of the sea or ocean.
Waves are one of the most dynamic and fascinating features of the sea, constantly shaping coastlines and influencing marine life. But how are they formed?
Maltese Islands Weather gave us the insight on their social media pages. Waves are created when wind blows across the surface of the sea or ocean. As moving air passes over the water, friction transfers energy from the wind to the water molecules, deforming the surface and creating waves. Depending on wind speed and strength, waves can range from gentle ripples to powerful rogue waves.
The distance between one wave crest and the next is known as the wavelength. Waves play several important roles in the marine environment: they help oxygenate water by creating air bubbles, shape shorelines through erosion and deposition, and release sea salt and other particles into the air when they break.
As waves approach the shore, their behaviour changes. The water continues moving at the same speed while the wavelength shortens, causing waves to become steeper. When waves travel over shallow water, friction with the seabed slows the base of the wave. Eventually, the crest becomes too steep and breaks, releasing energy and moving sand, pebbles, and other materials along the coast.
There are two main types of waves: destructive and constructive. Destructive waves form during storms and erode beaches, while constructive waves develop in calm weather and deposit material, helping beaches grow.
Another notable feature is sea spray - tiny droplets blown inland after waves break. This spray carries salt many kilometres inland, meaning that nowhere in the Maltese Islands is truly free from its influence.
Did your car get hit by splashes this weekend?