A five-act French drama, an Italian opera, a Japanese Kabuki play, four silent film adaptations and now, a restaurant? Apparently so! Tosca has had many reincarnations over the years, although most likely, none as unexpected as the exceptional dining experience being offered at this eatery in Mellieha, in the north of the island. 

Tucked away inside the Solana Hotel & Spa, a 4-star hotel that's recently been refurbished to very high standards (think parquet flooring and plush deep sofas in the lobby; upgraded room types and a rooftop pool), Tosca Restaurant, owned by the G3 Group, does not scream its presence from the façade. In fact, it has been so well-integrated into the hotel that you could walk past it without realising. But that would be a mistake, for Tosca lives up to its artistic heritage and offers an unanticipated level of quality and taste - giving flashier, and perhaps more fashionable, eateries around the island a run for their money. It aims to bring a new level of quality to in-hotel restaurants, and its operations are, in fact, completely separate to the hotel so focus can be retained on bringing exceptional quality to the tables. 

While the décor underlines the operatic theme – black-and-white images of various renditions of Tosca hang above the red booth-like seating which lines the walls – the standout features of this place go deeper. It’s the warm, professional service and the intense flavours the kitchen staff, managed by sprightly head chef Jean Paul, bring to each plate which leave a lasting flavour. Here, it’s the food which counts, and it is that which will keep drawing regulars back time and time again.

Indeed, this Italian diner is much more than your friendly Sicilian outlet. It comes with an extra dollop of imagination and enthusiasm, for the dishes presented in front of my husband and I truly put paid to the commonly-held belief that you get what you pay for and you need to pay through the nose for quality. Quality, here, is served with (slightly) abashed pride – an endearing and humble confidence in the calibre of their offering (such humility is, for the most part, a rare thing!) 

I ordered off the specials list, opting for the pan seared scallops served with white asparagus cream, crispy Parma ham, sautéed green asparagus and pomegranate (quite a mouthful in every sense) and the Argentinian fresh beef talgiata for mains. My husband, in the meantime, opted for the pappardelle with slow-cooked beef cheeks, oyster mushrooms and parmesan (also one of the specials) as well as crispy duck breast for mains, cooked to perfection – medium, featuring a flush of pink in the middle – and served with parsnip mousse, together with dried fruit.

As part of our meal, they threw in a portion of truffle potatoes with our sides and served lemon sorbet (presented with a shot of Frangelico) in between courses, showing a level of attention to detail – and to service – we had not anticipated. Our waiter, Caine, together with one of the outlet's managers, James, compounded this view with their quick reactions and knowledge of a meal’s pacing. James’ experience in some of the island’s most prestigious fine dining restaurants is brought to bear here, in the heart of Mellieha.  

If our orders don’t sound like what you would find on a typical menu in a mid-level restaurant of this sort, that’s because the menu is, once again, surprising. Yes, they offer the standard fare in terms of pizza and pasta options, but there is nothing standard about their preparation methods, or the flavours and toppings they invest in each bite. The Pizzotto al Salmone, for instance, consists of caramelized onions, smoked salmon, tomatoes and crusted artichokes – a Mediterranean feast, if you will – while the pasta options range from family-favourites like lasagne to more imaginative fare, such as the roe-filled tortelli and raviolini filled with Asiago cheese (both made with the real-deal: fresh pasta al’uovo). Moreover, their frequent fish and seasonal specialities mark the eatery out for its focus on fresh ingredients, sourced locally. Indeed, it's in the process of changing to its winter menu, adapting the restaurant's offering to the tastes and textures of the season. 

They even cater to those with a ravenous appetite: their Pizza Doppia Pasta, made with double pizza dough, topped with Salami Milano, ricotta, fresh basil, tomatoes and poppy seeds, will leave even the hungriest satiated; while their hearty slow-cooked lamb shank is especially tempting as the weather turns cooler. If you’re looking after your figure, especially in the run-up to the Christmas season, there are no-carb options too – such as the octopus with lime beans served with a smoked paprika vinaigrette on the antipasti menu – and rich soups, including a prawn bisque as well as a pumpkin and carrot soup.

But, it's the desserts which truly step ahead of the pack: their Gelatine al Campari with coconut macaroons, as well as the mille-feuille I chose, were divine!

One size rarely fits all, but at Tosca, the generous spread of choice, together with the effusive warm welcome, means that every single member of your party will relish the experience and, perhaps, demand you go there again. 

Tosca Restaurant, Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieħa, Malta. For bookings, call 2280 1927 or visit the official website.