Agriculture, tradition, and a bag of nuts? Must visit this week: the feast of San Martin
“Ġewż, lewż, qastan, tin, kemm inħobbu lil San Martin!” St Martin’s feast is commemorated on 11th November and is one Maltese tradition that has been passed through generations. In Maltese culture, St Martin’s feast is celebrated on the Sunday closest to 11th November, and occurs at a time when walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts and dried figs are in abundance, hence the saying “walnuts, almonds, chestnuts, fig – oh how we love St Martin!”
The feast celebrates St Martin of Tours, a Roman soldier whose story has been recounted several times. It is said that after cutting off half his cloak to give to a beggar, he had a vision and converted to Christianity.
The theme of poverty in St Martin’s story is roped in with the Maltese tradition of handing out bags of nuts and fruits, the borża ta’ San Martin. Traditionally these were given out to the poor - the larger and fuller the bags were a reflection of the wealth of the giver.
And, of course, it wouldn’t be a Maltese feast without sweet treats put in the mix! A traditional feast sweet is the Torta ta’ San Martin (San Martin cake), made of a nut and fruit mix similar to that found in the borża. Another sweet treat loved by all, especially children, is the ħobż ta’ San Martin, which is a sweet bread usually incorporating liquorice and sugar on top.
Since St Martin of Tours is their patron saint, the main events happen in Baħrija (suburbs of Rabat, Malta). Locally known as Il-Fiera ta’ San Martin, this traditional event dates back hundreds of years, initially centring around playing games and winning lambs or rabbits. Recent traditions centre on agriculture, food, and entertainment for all the family. A popular activity is the roasting of chestnuts on open fires, which attracts many, and every year during the feast, a young St Martin dressed in full Roman general costume walks through the town in the morning, and an older version of St Martin dressed as a bishop takes the same route in the afternoon, alluding to St Martin’s legend.
Will you be heading over to Baħrija to celebrate?