You don’t have to be Catholic to enjoy Malta’s unique Christmas traditions.
Just like a colourful Hindu festival that’s a delight to witness, the Maltese Christmas is worthy of the spotlight.
The Christian tradition in Malta has changed considerably, no doubt, since shipwrecked St Paul brought the faith to the islands in 60 AD. He’d probably be scratching his chin if he read this! Just as with anything, among the locals, you’ll have the aloof and the fanatics. But Christmas lovers in Malta take the following quite seriously and enjoy it all so much, they start as early as November.
1. Malta goes all out on decorations
Beginning with decorative street lights on every road and roundabout to almost each and every home, Christmas decorations are big in Malta. Street decorations usually involve bright blinking lights depicting Christmas trees and such. Some locations now opt for a classier design and softer glow, but the traditional look is as loud as possible. Meanwhile, residents’ tastes range from delicate white fairy lights in a window to multiple Christmas trees and entire balconies overflowing with flashing colours - you've been warned.
2. Every family has a heirloom Baby Jesus in a manger
When celebrating the birth of Christ, the Maltese illustrate the occasion with statues of Baby Jesus in a manger (Gesu' Bambin). This icon can be several decades old as it tends to be passed on from one generation to another. An antique statue that has been maintained in perfect condition is considered very valuable. The Baby Jesus resides in a wooden manger with hay, and is generally placed in a prominent place in the house. The area is decorated with fairy lights, candles and the traditional gulbiena.
3. Every family grows vetches (gulbiena)
Vetches (gulbiena) are sprouts grown from canary seeds that are grown specifically as a Christmas decoration in Malta and Gozo. Seeds are scattered on damp cotton pads and placed in a dark place. A few weeks later, the vetches look like long, noodle-like shoots. This white live decoration is traditionally placed by baby Jesus in the manger and also in village Churches, as well as window sills and any place the plant is allowed to sprawl and hang.
4. The Nativity Crib (il-Presepju) goes to another level
The project endeavours the building of an entire nativity scene from stone, wood, cardboard, papier mache, cork, cotton wool and so on. It is lovingly painted and may contain distinct Maltese features such as rubble stone walls and prickly pears. The scene is peopled with clay figures (pasturi) of the Holy Family, the Three Magi, various farm animals, shepherds with their sheep, angels and so on, but the crib is not truly complete without l-għaġeb tal-presepju - the shepherd so marveled by the beauty of Baby Jesus that he became a legend.
The size of a Nativity Crib can range from hand-held to an entire village square. Live nativity scenes (Presepju Haj) akin to St Francis of Assisi’s original re-enactment of the birth of Christ are also becoming popular. The largest and most well-known is in Gozo, by the name of Betlehem f'Ghajnsielem. Exhibitions of homemade nativity cribs (Wirja ta’ Presepji) are also popular.
5. Midnight Mass, mqaret and mulled wine
Maltese churches are packed for the Midnight Mass of the night between Christmas Eve and Christmas Day - those that go to church only one day in the year would pick this occasion. Something of a cultural tradition rather than a religious one, it ties in with a trend to follow Midnight Mass with an early Christmas breakfast that includes champagne or mulled wine.
The celebration itself is quite unique. Said to stem from Luqa altar boy George Sapiano’s sermon back in 1883, the Midnight Mass sermon is always delivered by a young boy or girl aged 7 to 10. Apart from being cute, this is considered an honour for the child and the whole family. After mass, customarily, parish priests offer the community traditional Maltese date cakes (mqaret) and coffee on the parvis while neighbours exchange greetings.
6. A children's procession takes to the streets early Christmas morning
Following Saint George Preca’s initiative in Hamrun in 1921, most villages see local children follow a statue of Baby Jesus carried at shoulder height just after Midnight Mass. Carrying lamps through the village streets, they sing old traditional songs such as Ninni la Tibkix Iżjed (be soothed and cry no more). In some villages, some children are dressed in nativity scene costumes.
7. Families indulge in THE Christmas Day lunch
Maltese families express love with food. Christmas Day lunch in Malta is akin to a banquet. Rule number one: the volume of food could feed twice as many people attending the lunch. And, including extended family, that could already add up to thirty people for a five-course lunch. ‘Lunch’ can go on for several hours; starting at 1pm and ending at 7pm, for example. The sheer number of people with full bellies and free-flowing alcohol make these very loud talk-over-each-other affairs sprinkled with wholehearted laughter. Be warned: restaurant lunches are no different!
8. The Maltese have inherited mince pies
A British tradition that stuck is the now a Maltese tradition of baking mince pies at Christmas time. Despite the misnomer, mince pies contain a delicious mixture of chopped dried fruit and spices which are perfectly washed down with a cup of tea! Homemade or store bought, everyone enjoys a mince pie at any time of day at Christmas time on the islands.
9. And they stole the Panettone
From our Italian neighbours comes the soft Panettone. While more recent in its introduction, rarely will you find families that don’t enjoy at least one of these delicious soft cakes during Christmas. Coming in plain, fruit or cream variations, it is not surprising that the Maltese have quickly adopted the Panettone as their own.
So there are at least nine good reasons to experience Christmas in Malta. Intriguing, isn't?