It’s the biggest town in Malta, but it doesn’t get nearly as much love as it should.
Birkirkara isn’t a place you’re likely to find in a lot of tourist guides. Sure, it’s the biggest town in Malta and spawned several of Malta’s most well-loved hot spots (Sliema and St Julians, for example, both started off as suburbs of Birkirkara, so jot that down) but its image isn’t exactly glamorous, exciting, or even cute. It’s mostly houses and offices, right? Is there anything to do there? Is there anywhere to go? Is there anything to see? Yes, yes there is, but you just have to dig a little to find it.
Churches
“What a cop-out,” I can hear you groan. “All towns in Malta are full of churches, and you’re going to lead with that for your ‘Birkirkara-is-so-cool-and-unique’ pitch?”
Yes, my friends, you’re right, but what other town has a church that looks like this?
See what I mean? Built over nearly 20 years, from 1965 to 1982, the church is dedicated to Saint Thérèse of Lisieux, and designed by Italian architect Giorgio Pacini. It’s a modernist marvel (some people affectionately refer to it as ‘the spaceship’), and you either love it or hate it – personally, I happen to love it.
Of course, we also have plenty of more traditional but equally glorious churches, such as the incredible Basilica of St Helen.
The feast of St Helen (Santa Liena) takes place this week (18th August). There’s a pretty heated rivalry between the two main band clubs, Ghaqda Muzikali Santa Liena (Tal-Bagri) and Duke of Connaught (Tal-Ghama), but if there’s one thing that unites them, its how much they love Santa Liena – and how much they love to throw a party.
While we’re on the subject of churches, we can’t not mention the Old Church (il-Knisja l-Qadima), as well as the beautiful Santwarju tal-Madonna tal-Herba, which has been the site of deep religious devotion since at least the 1400s, and where you can see a huge collection of ex-voto paintings and offerings, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in order to fulfil a prayer.
There are about 18 churches in Birkirkara, so we can’t name them all, but rest assured, they’re all worth a look.
Places of Interest
Il-Mithna
The Mill (il-Mithna), an 18th century windmill built during the time of Grand Master De Vilhena, was the studio and exhibition space of the recently-departed and deeply influential Modernist artist, Gabriel Caruana, for many years. It is now home to the Gabriel Caruana Foundation, which organises exhibitions and events throughout the year. Founded by Gabriel’s wife and daughter, and architect Richard England, among others, the Foundation works hard to ensure Gabriel’s legacy keeps growing stronger.
The Wignacourt Aqueduct
The Wignacourt Aqueduct was built by the Order of Saint John in the 17th century to carry clean water from springs in Dingli and Rabat to Valletta. It remained in use until the 20th century. Most of its arches still survive today, and you can see them in Birkirkara, as well as Fleur de Lys (a suburb that forms part of Birkirkara). However, we can’t lay exclusive claim to this – you can also see them in Santa Venera, Hamrun, Balzan and Attard.
St Aloysius College Sports Complex
St Aloysius is a Jesuit-run school and Sixth Form that’s renowned for turning out prime ministers, presidents and other such big cheeses. But why should you care if you’re not an Old Aloysian? I’ll tell you why – because its sports complex is insane. It includes a gym, a basketball and handball pavillion, courts for volleyball, badminton, and indoor five-a-side football, a turf football pitch, a 400m athletics track, and two tennis courts. While it’s primarily intended for the students, it’s used by lots of pro athletes to train, and it’s open to the public outside school hours for a fee. It’s certainly a lot cheaper than most gym memberships too.
The Old Railway Station
One of Birkirkara’s most famous landmarks is the Old Railway Station, which is situated in a public garden. Back when Malta had trains, Birkirkara was one of the stops on the route from Valletta to Mdina, and the station still exists, with original signage intact. The surrounding gardens aren’t in great shape at the moment, but it would be remiss not to mention it, and there are works in progress to spruce the place up and make it the gorgeous public space it should be (fingers crossed).
The Baby Jesus Museum
If you’re in Birkirkara around Christmas, check out the Muzew tal-Bambini. It’s only open in the weeks leading up to Christmas, but collector Paul Pace’s little museum has about 1,500 different types. It’s certainly one of a kind!
The Valley Road McDonald’s
Just kidding, but not really. If there’s one site in Birkirkara that everyone is familiar with, it’s McDonald’s. Need to meet someone in Birkirkara? Niltaqghu il-Mc Donald’s.
Eating and drinking
Speaking of McDonald’s, let’s be real here – if you’re looking for fine dining in Birkirkara, you’re pretty much out of luck (although if you’re looking for fried chicken and Chinese takeaways, it’s a goldmine.) But there are some places to check out if you’re up for some good eats.
Andrew’s Snack Bar’s ftajjar are the stuff of legend. The place has been around since 1966, and even though it’s had a makeover in recent times, the flavours and the atmosphere haven’t changed. It’s now being run by the second generation of the family, and shows no signs of letting up. Long may it reign!
Birkirkara is so big and sprawling that you’re never sure where it ends and where it begins, but we’re more than ready to fight Msida for custody of Stanjata, a small but brilliant place in Valley Road, tucked away among showrooms and offices, that does an incredible carbonara, and some killer burgers too.
Meanwhile, on the other side of town, Dayfresh Meats is the place to go to sink your teeth into a steak. You choose your cut from the butcher’s counter, and either take it home to prepare later, or let the chefs do the heavy lifting for you, preparing it for you to dine right there and then.
Is Swatar technically part of Birkirkara or not? I’m not 100 per cent sure, but I’m going to go out on a limb and claim Charles Bar as one of ours too. Charles Bar is another place that has been around for years and years, but still draws loads of people for its well-priced drinks, generous appetisers, and its ridiculously tasty and innovative menu that changes regularly. It’s also famed for its rabbit, probably one of the few places in Birkirkara where it’s regularly on the menu.
As for winebars, it has at least two very good ones – Sensations, which is close to the aforementioned church of St Thérèse, and Four Seasons, which is on Naxxar Road – both of which have a nice selection of wine and do mean platters.
For fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses, deli items and groceries, many locals tend to head to the large open-air market (suq) which sets up around the Church of St Helen, almost all the way up to the Birkirkara by-pass on Wednesdays and Fridays.
Also, my personal favourite place to buy bread in Birkirkara is Sacred Heart Bakery in Triq il-Gummar, a real old-school place, which has customers double-parked outside around the clock, waiting to pick up a delicious, freshly-baked hobza or ftira. It’s the real deal.