Remnants of an empire: discover Malta’s colonial past through these 6 iconic sights
Malta is pubescent. Not an actual, physical, growing child, engaging in tantrums and screaming at the top of its lungs (though the noise on the street can drum into your skull in the same way), but a young country, trying to steadily assert itself and grow, attempting to shed the influence of all who came before. For there were many, key among them: the Romans who had conquered most of this end of the world; the Knights of St John who administered the islands for over four centuries; the French (in Malta for only two years); and the British, who led us in times of enormous global upheavals - two World Wars and shifting political economies ended up dealing a blow to that empire which was not entirely unwelcome.
Today, the island’s urban and rural landscape are a palimpsest of its history, as architectural and cultural remnants of old rulers still criss-cross the country. So, where in Malta can we learn and remember the lessons of the past? Here are a selection of spots!
1. The British telephone box
The iconic, bright red British phone booth can still be seen on many-a-corner around Malta and Gozo, even though they are not in use anymore. And while we will not be calling ol’ Blighty in any of these anytime soon, they are a reminder of the connections the island has, not only with the UK, but with the other Commonwealth countries, ex-colonies of the British empire.
2. Buskett
Way back, before the Knights landed on the island, trees covered these shaggy rocks in the Med. Unfortunately, military might was prized above all else (these were, indeed, dangerous times) so the rulers chopped Malta’s forests down to make boats and boost their marine fighting capability. The woodland in Buskett was, later, created as a hunting reserve – but for the Knights themselves.
3. Mdina’s winding streets
Founded by Phoenician settlers, in the eight century BC, Mdina experienced several transformations over the centuries as fortifications and structures were built and earthquakes reworked the city’s streets. But, from antiquity to the medieval ages and through to the British period and independence, the old capital’s walls tell a story of conquerors and influences – one echoing the very nature of the Maltese language itself, superimposing Arabic with European tones to create something very unique.
4. Valletta’s skyline
The oval dome – belonging to the Catholic church known as the Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel – and the thin spire – which rises from the Anglican St Paul's Pro-Cathedral – epitomise Malta’s capital, Valletta, and frequently serve as a visual metonymy of the entire island. Both places of worship (and their crowns) were created by rulers of these islands: the original Basilica was first founded by the knights in 1570, while the Anglican church was commissioned Dowager Queen Adelaide and founded in 1839. Both represent the rich complexities of Malta’s history, characterising the archipelago and uniting the islanders through what has come before.
5. Pjazza Teatru Rjal
Otherwise known by the average Joe, as it-teatru mwaqqa (the demolished theatre), the open-air structure and auditorium of Pjazza Teatru Rjal is all that remains of Malta’s Royal Opera House, first built in 1866 but destroyed during an air raid in 1942. The design was created by Edward Middleton Barry, the brainchild of the Covent Garden Theatre in London, echoing the neoclassical style prevalent in Britain at the time.
6. The Grand Harbour
As the sun set on the Knights' rule in Malta, one site on the islands was sure to remain pivotal to the fortunes of its people: the Grand Harbour. A natural phenomenon, conquerors have attempted to pierce its walls – built over the years by the island’s administrators – and have succeeded, at points. The Great Siege was fought in these docks, and, when World War II hit, the British ship Santa Maria limped into harbour to the cheers of the waiting hungry crowds. Today, it is also the site of commerce and business, and is the first port of call for cruise ship tourists first stepping on the islands here.
There are many more! Which spots on the island remind you of Malta’s past?