One of the oldest towns in Malta oozes charm on every street corner, and is also the proud birthplace of several key cultural and historical figures.
Some 20 years ago, a new trend in Malta saw young couples turning their backs on modern properties and seeking out what quickly became known as 'houses of character': old residences deep in the core of historic villages, which they painstakingly (and expensively) restored to a glory that surpassed even their own heyday.
While housing preferences have swung back and forth in the intervening years, houses of character remain as desirable as ever, and none more so that within the historic town of Zebbug, on the way to Mdina. And it was thanks to this unprecedented wave of interest in old houses that village cores were not only preserved but embellished, and given a new lease of life.
A brief history of Zebbug
Zebbug may not feature on traditional guide books as it doesn't have any museums or attractions in the traditional sense. Or does it? Zebbug, whose name means olives in Maltese (in reference to the large olive groves that once grew there), was as important as both Mdina and Valletta during the time of the Knights of St John, so much so that Grand Master Emmanuel de Rohan-Polduc elevated it to the status of a city, and granted it the grand title of Citta Rohan in 1777.
In gratitude, the residents promised to build two triumphal arches in de Rohan’s honour. However, due to technical difficulties, only half the promise was maintained, and only one arch was constructed at a cost of 1,000 scudi funded entirely by the residents and the parish church. Sadly, de Rohan did not live to see his arch completed, but it still stands proudly today, marking the entrance to the town’s historic centre.
It is a testament to the town’s ancient heritage that an archway built in the late 18th century would be nicknamed “the new gateway” (il-Bieb il-Gdid) by residents - and with good reason too! Zebbug is one of the oldest towns in Malta, born out of the merger of three communities that developed during the Arab occupation (870 - 1090), namely Hal Dwin, Hal Muxi and Hal Mula. Walking through the archway and up the avenue leads you directly to the heart of the town dominated by the parish church, which is dedicated to St Philip of Agira. The current church was built between 1599 and 1632, but stands on the site of a previous, smaller church dating back to 1380.
A unique parish church
The church boasts a magnificent titular painting by the 17th century knight-artist Lucas Garnier, possibly the most important artist working in Malta between Caravaggio and Mattia Preti. It also features two spectacular murals by great 18th century painter of the Favray school Francesco Zahra, considered by most to be his best works. Other treasures include works of art by Guido Reni and Zebbug-born sculptor Antonio Sciortino.
But the piece de resistance is the titular statue of St Philip. Where other parishes have their patron saint statues carved out of wood, the Zebbug residents upped the ante. In 1860 they managed to collect so much money between them that they decided to make the statue entirely out of solid silver. The stunning work of art was created by sculptor Luigi Fontana in 1864, and ranks as the most beautiful statue of its kind on the island. When it was completed, it was taken to the Vatican, where it was blessed by Pope Pius IX.
Explore the surroundings
After feasting your eyes on the treasures of the church, catch your breath with some refreshments at one of the local cafes for a spot of people-watching in the town square, or pop into one of the three band clubs for a cheap and cheerful snack. Then, meander down the picturesque alleyways of the old town to appreciate why houses of character are called thus. It's an architectural feast for the senses that will make you dream of relocating right there and then. Look out for the countless religious niches on the street corners and see if you can spot the windmill. Hint: there are no sails anymore, but the tell-tale round tower still stands above the square base.
If you're interested in still more religious architecture, Zebbug has no fewer than 13 chapels dotted around the city and the countryside just beyond the main road, mostly built in the 17th and 18th centuries, with the oldest one, dedicated to St Roque, built as far back as 1593.
In order to continue understanding Zebbug’s importance in the island’s history, we definitely recommend a visit to the Museum of Archaeology in Valletta - look out for pottery artefacts from the 'Zebbug phase'. The area yielded a kind of prehistoric pottery which had not been seen before. These archaeological findings were discovered in tombs in an area known as Ta’ Trapna, and a scattering of Punic and Phoenician tombs were also found, together with a small number of cart ruts and other remains.
Claims to fame
Today, Zebbug is home to the French Ambassador in what was known as Palazzo Manduca, directly behind the church. But Zebbug’s connection with the French goes back to the French occupation of Malta (1798 - 1800) when the town was regarded as a Francophile community. The story goes that while local churches were being plundered for their riches in order to fund Napoleon’s campaign, the Zebbug residents managed to save their church’s treasures by throwing the church doors wide open, thus tricking the French into thinking there was nothing worth stealing there. In fact, the quick thinking residents had already hidden all the church’s gold and silver iconography, and when the French saw the open doors, they kept on going.
Zebbug got its 15 minutes of fame on the silver screen when it featured in the 1928 silent movie The Marquis of Bolibar directed by Walter Summer and starring 1920s and 30s film icon Elissa Landi. Up to 1,000 Maltese extras took part in the film, in what was only one of the first ever feature films to be shot in Malta. In the film, Zebbug (and Mdina) doubled up as a Spanish town in 1812 during Napoleon's peninsular campaign.
Home of the greats
Before leaving Zebbug, stop to admire the monument to Mikiel Anton Vassalli (1764 - 1829) perched on the roundabout in front of the De Rohan arch, another masterpiece by celebrated sculptor Anton Agius. One of Zebbug’s most famous sons, Vassalli was a writer, philosopher and linguist who published important books about the Maltese language “purifying” it of Italian influences and reviving it as a national language.
Finally, Zebbug was also the birthplace of Malta’s national poet Dun Karm Psaila (1871 - 1961) who penned the Maltese national anthem. In fact, the house where he was born still stands today in the heart of the city. Other prominent sons of Zebbug include composer Nicolo Isouard, the 18th century Maltese patriot Dun Mikiel Scerri who was executed in 1799 for his involvement in an unsuccessful revolt to overthrow the French, and Bishop Franceso Saverio Caruana, who was the commander of the Zebbug and Siggiewi battalions during the French revolt.