Malta and Gozo are replete with places to eat, but some localities are renowned for their particular food and authentic vibe.
Valletta
The founder of Valletta, Grandmaster Jean Parisot de Valette, famously remarked that the capital city was built ‘by gentlemen, for gentlemen’. However, that makes it sound much more boring and elitist than it really is – that is, a newly-revamped city chockfull of lively restaurants, cosy pubs and ritzy little bars popping up and pushing the boundaries of an interesting, well-fed and watered night out. Besides, a satisfying meal may be followed by one of many cultural events or activities to attend in the capital.
Marsaxlokk
The southern town of Marsaxlokk has retained the most authentic elements of its character, and its main promenade is brimming with restaurants whose speciality is seafood, often caught by the husbands, brothers and sons of the restaurateurs. Most of these restaurants offer open-air seating options when the weather permits it, and the salty sea air coupled with the view of bobbing Maltese boats will work up your appetite in no time. Marsaxlokk also hosts the famous weekly fish market every Sunday, so if you’re in the mood to have a go on the grill yourself, there’s no better place to pick up the catch of the day.
Mdina
You’ve probably heard it already, but a visit to the centuries-old city of Mdina really is like going back in time. After a relaxing meal at one of the elegant restaurants perched atop the bastions, with the spectacular countryside views unfurling below you, take time to walk through the ancient streets of Malta’s former capital and revel in the atmosphere – cool and serene by day, romantic with just a hint of mystery by night.
St Julian's & Sliema
Sliema and St Julian’s remain by far the most diverse areas of Malta, thanks to the influx of foreigners who have moved here to live and work, so they’re the best places to go to when you want to keep your options open because you’ll find every kind of cuisine. Tasty Indian curries or a succulent Chinese buffet? All the sushi you could possibly eat or a sizzling Brazilian-style churrasco? A fabulous burger with all the trimmings or a good old-fashioned plate of pasta? It’s all right here, with a bonus selection of bars and watering-holes for after-dinner drinks.
The Three Cities
The heavily fortified towns of Birgu, Bormla and Isla form the cluster around the Grand Harbour known as the Three Cities, and are a big part of Malta’s maritime history. They’ve undergone a fairly drastic facelift in recent years, and have become hotspots for history lovers and foodies alike. While the towns’ naval heritage remains fully intact, the choice of where to go for a bite to eat or drinks with friends has increased significantly. A stroll along the Birgu waterfront reveals a range of restaurants and bars, with a gorgeous view of the marina opposite, while the streets of Bormla and Isla hide lots of culinary treasures, ranging from seafood takeaways to traditional Maltese eateries.
Mgarr
The Maltese fenkata (rabbit feast) is not just a meal – it’s a social event. The menu typically consists of rabbit liver and kidneys cooked in tomato sauce with spaghetti as a starter, then the rest of the rabbit, fried and served with potatoes, as a main course. It’s cheap, delicious and hearty, and a quintessentially Maltese outing. Nobody goes for a fenkata with expectations of haute cuisine – many rabbit places are little more than converted garages – but some of the best places for this kind of meal are found in rural areas, particularly Dingli and Mgarr, which offer beautiful scenery as well as some glorious routes for a post-dinner stroll.
Gozo
Malta’s beautiful and peaceful sister island is a must-visit, no matter how brief your stay here is, and it’s only 20 minutes away thanks to the regularly-scheduled Gozo Channel ferry. Get ready to enjoy a countryside hunt for the best that Gozo’s kitchens have to offer, ranging from fresh fish in charming seaside restaurants to the famously luscious ftira, a pizza-like delight layered with potatoes and heaped with local cheese, sausage or anchovies.