In this instalment of the Laid Back Series, Edward Bonello lifts the drapes on the allegorical statue, exploring a mix of passion, commitment and history.
If you’re visiting Malta in the next week, you’re in for a real treat! Easter time in Malta is a very special time indeed, as it opens a window onto traditions of old that mix with very real passions that grow each year. In fact, in some localities, it is a very significant time when the community comes together to celebrate Holy Week, Good Friday and Easter Sunday - and if there’s one place where this appointment with heritage is kept alive, it is the island’s capital, Valletta.
The Archconfraternity of the Holy Crucifix, instituted in the Church of the Franciscan Friars Minor, have organised the Good Friday procession for many centuries, with records going back to the time of the Knights of St John.
One particular station in the collection draws special attention to itself for its stark uniqueness, since the statue-bearers who carry it, are just four in number, and are hidden away under the intricate structure, only to be led blind, by a fifth brother.
Laid Back Series obtained exclusive access to the ritualistic process of the yearly setting up of the Monument – the allegorical tableau featuring Christ in repose, being ‘carried’ by four angels – a 19th Century collaborative masterpiece by Prof. Nicola Zammit and master sculptor Carlo Darmanin.
The statue-bearers are well experienced in the art and have proven themselves over the years to gain themselves this rare honour. The Monument is considered one of the heaviest statues on the island, with other similar ones in other localities having been modified to run on wheels. In Valletta, they pride themselves to still carry the statue the old way.
“This is when it all starts falling in place, and we know that Good Friday is upon us,” says Alan Xerri (38), the youngest of the group, yet the one who has been under the drapes of the Monument longest. “I was very young when I joined the ranks of the team, at just 26. Apart from the fact that it is only carried by just four persons, which is a very small number indeed when compared to the 8 or 10-strong teams that carry other statues, the statue-bearers of the Monument would be located directly underneath the statue, accentuating the weight of the structure further,” Alan explains.
“Considering the structure itself, the rich embroidered fabrics, the four full-sized papier mâché angels and the figure of Christ, its no wonder this is considered to be one of the heaviest statues that is carried during a procession in Malta,” he adds.
Statue-bearing is taken very seriously in Valletta. It is an age-old tradition in itself, a skill and passion which are inherited from father to son. The procession passes through the straight and mostly uphill streets of Valletta only to pause at each intersection, and definitely not before, offering an added challenge of endurance to the experienced men who take the task as an honour.
Clint Cremona (44) is the newest addition to the team, having only joined the ranks last year having served for many years as statue-bearer in the Vara l-Kbira, or the tableau depicting the crucifixion, before that. “This will be my second year with this crew. I feel we clicked well as a team last year,” Clint says, emphasising how important teamwork is. “On the road, it is extremely important to keep an excellent line of communication with your mates, watching out for each other, making sure everyone is doing well. We are a very small team, and there is no space for anything to go wrong,” he furthers.
Yet the peculiar physics of this unique statue holds a rather special surprise for the statue-bearers, and it has got to do with Malta’s streets – even in Valletta – not being exactly perfect!
“In certain streets, where the ground would be uneven, often mounding in the middle for better water escape, the weight of the Monument wouldn’t be evenly distributed between all four men, with the lion’s share of the burden resting on just two,” Paul Spiteri (50) explains. “This introduces an added challenge for the bearers, knowing that in certain streets of the procession, they will have to carry much more than their fair share, while the other two need to help out the best they can.”
Gilmar Zammit (41) is also a stalwart statue-bearer with many years under his belt, but he also sits on the leadership of the Archconfraternity that organises the whole event. “Each year, I make it a point that my responsibilities within the organisation of the procession are done, so I can prepare mentally for the ordeal on Friday. So, I make sure that all statues are well set up in the church, with the traditional flower arrangements and ornaments by Wednesday of Holy Week. Then I can concentrate on the journey.”
There is a fifth person who plays an equally crucial role in the formula, since the bearers are literally kept in the dark, and that is Paul Scerri (55), a retired statue bearer in the same statue himself, who leads the crew through the street, one backward step at a time.
“I was a statue-bearer of the Monument for 26 years and only retired last year. Today, I am honoured to lead the bearers through the procession, as I guide them through the hills and slopes of Valletta. Having been there with them, sharing in the inordinate weight of the statue, I know what it means to stick the heat and uneasiness of relying on the directions of someone else. It takes complete trust which the bearers place in me, and which I do my best to return with change!” he adds.
The part all bearers dread most is the steep descent in St Paul’s Street, followed by the 70 steps that lead to the church, at the end of the procession. Valletta’s is the only procession that makes its way through a stepped street, which offers an added challenge on any statue bearer, requiring extraordinary stamina at the end of the gruelling ordeal, as well as exceptional coordination.
“The satisfaction of bringing it home is immense though,” they all agree. “We would know we had a great journey when we descend St Paul’s Street and the steps in perfect unison, to the beat and synchronisation of the funeral march played by the band present. They are moments which make it all worthwhile, and that stay with you all year round,” they conclude.
Look out for the extraordinary monument at Valletta's Good Friday procession, which will take place this Friday at 5pm.
This feature forms part of The Laid Back Series by GuideMeMalta.com. Bringing to light unique characters, local traditions, and the beauty of old Malta, we search every corner of the Maltese islands to find the most unique of stories that are sure to delight and bring a sense of nostalgia to our readers.
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