I’d heard a lot about the small restaurant run by a local couple at Mgarr ix-Xini in Gozo over the years, but had never visited myself. I had heard tell of honest, delicious food right by the water’s edge, served with no frills or fuss, in a place that’s a little rough around the edges.

Finding myself in Gozo some time ago, I decided to see what the fuss was about. Mgarr ix-Xini, a bay close to Ghajnsielem, Xewkija and Sannat, is known to locals and visitors as a picturesque swimming spot, but its greatest claim to fame is that it was the setting chosen for Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s passion project, By the Sea. The kiosk also found fame in the film – modelled as a grocery shop – as the chalkboard menu sign right outside proudly declares.

While I generally like to book in advance, efforts to find a contact number for the place online bore no fruit, so my partner and I headed over to the bay in the morning, with plans of a swim followed by a beachside lunch. When we arrived, I went straight over to enquire about reserving a table, and despite the early hour, was lucky to be given one of the few remaining spots – albeit with a warning to come early, as it tends to get busy later on.

The décor is not much to speak of – the small indoor area can only be described as a beach shack, with the seating area, made up of an array of mismatched outdoor furniture, sprawled across the surrounding space. The husband-and-wife team that run it also made sure to confirm that we knew what we’d be getting, explaining that they don’t serve pasta and other dishes as full-blown restaurants do, but only fish and shellfish. Glancing over at the outdoor grill overlooking the valley set right at the entrance, we happily agreed – yes, fish is what we had come for.

Returning a few hours later, refreshed from the sea and with a healthy appetite in tow, we were shown to our table – a lovely, shady spot under the trees. As if to illustrate the casual atmosphere of the place (it is a beach bar after all) a sleepy, ginger cat had made itself comfortable on my seat. Reluctantly giving up the coveted spot after some coaxing, it lazily climbed the tree above us, finding a comfortable perch from which to keep us company.

As the chalkboard outside suggests, there are no menus here, only a list of what’s available on the day – a great omen, indicating only the freshest fare. Oh, and they don’t accept credit cards either, so make sure you’ve got cash on you!

After some deliberation, we chose a sharing starter of mussels al cartoccio, followed by a calamari main for him, and a fresh lipp (greater forkbeard) fish for me. Our starter arrived as the restaurant began to fill up, and with not a table to spare around us, we were glad of the advice to come early! The mussels were cooked simply, with minimal ingredients to maximise their delicate flavour. While they hadn’t been de-bearded (a bit of a pet peeve for me), they more than made up for it in the taste, which was simple and delicious.

The mains followed, and this is where the experience really peaked for me. My fish, also prepared using the Italian, al cartoccio method, was cooked to perfection, the meat as smooth as milk and just as delicate in flavour. Another simply prepared dish, with little more than a squeeze of lemon and olive oil to enhance the taste, it showed a sensitivity to the ingredients that you’d seldom expect to find at a beachside kiosk. My partner’s calamari were equally enjoyable, especially judging by the mumbles of appreciation that followed each mouthful. Served alongside exceedingly ordinary chunky chips and salad, it’s easy to see that the clear speciality here is the fish, which really couldn’t be faulted.

As we cleared our plates and sat back to enjoy the view, the atmosphere was buzzing, with full tables of locals and tourists enjoying the sunny afternoon. And as we took it all in, indulging in some people-watching as our food digested, I couldn’t help but think: this is what the perfect summer afternoon looks like.

Verdict

Food 4/5
Service 3/5
Ambience 4/5
Value 3/5