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Food & drink
Top local chefs predict which Maltese restaurants will make it to Michelin Guide
Straight from the horse’s mouth…
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Last December, we were delighted to learn that the foodies from France’s respected Michelin Guide have *finally* noticed the great things happening in Malta’s culinary scene, and that Malta will be one of 32 countries covered in the Michelin Guide in 2020.
Since then, speculation among local food aficionados has been rife – which local restaurants will make the cut? How many will be featured, and will any of them be bestowed with a coveted Michelin star?
With the announcement of the first Maltese selection just around the corner – all will be revealed next Wednesday, 26th February – we reached out to some of Malta’s best chefs to find out who they thought deserves a mention. And while it’s impossible to say for certain (and the guys at the Michelin Guide are notoriously secretive), here are the likeliest local restos to feature, in no particular order, according to those in the know.
Noni
Located in a stylishly refurbished former jazz bar, the gorgeous Noni, headed by chef Jonathan Brincat, reinterprets traditional Maltese dishes, from fried rabbit to te fit-tazza (tea in a tumbler), and adds a touch of French cuisine flair, with exquisite results. We’re not surprised that this stylish Valletta resto was mentioned by most chefs we spoke to.
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Tartarun
Offering an upmarket, fine-dining experience set in the fishing village of Marsaxlokk, family-run Tartarun is a rustic yet modern restaurant that specialises in carefully sourced fish and seafood, along with an array of fine wines. Malta being a Mediterranean island, it stands to reason that an exquisite fish restaurant would make it onto the Michelin radar.
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Bahia
Bahia is housed in a 200-year-old restored townhouse in the heart of the pretty village of Lija. The frequently changing menu only features a handful of dishes, but the precision and the respect shown to the ingredients will satisfy even the most fastidious. We certainly agree with the chefs’ prediction here – this central eatery has definitely got the goods.
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The de Mondion Restaurant
Widely acknowledged as one of the top restaurants in Malta, the elegant de Mondion offers excellent service, food quality and presentation, and an extensive wine list. The terrace, on the Mdina bastions, enjoys a beautiful view of more than half the island, so it certainly ticks all the boxes. We’ve heard whispers that this one is in the running for a star, not just a mention – time will tell.
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Caviar & Bull
Award-winning Chef Marvin Gauci has overseen Caviar & Bull’s refined and diverse menu, which offers an original fusion of high-quality and experimental cuisines with a nod towards molecular gastronomy, and a mix of local and international flavours. Our sources also mention a possible star for this one, so we’ll wait and see.
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Fifty Nine Republic
A relatively recent addition to the Maltese haute cuisine scene, Fifty Nine Republic is making quite a name for itself for its top-quality offerings; from its sumptuous decor to its glorious food. The menu features classic cuisine with a contemporary touch, leaning towards the French style. Young Chef Patron Maria Sammut has already racked up several awards for her work, so she’s definitely one to watch!
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The Harbour Club
True to its name, this elegant eatery is just a few seconds’ walk from the promenade overlooking Grand Harbour – and has a divine Mediterranean menu with French influences to top it off, which changes according to seasonality. It’s a personal favourite, and we certainly agree with the chefs that this gem should be in the running.
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Grain
The recently opened Grain, set within the luxurious five-star Rosselli hotel in Valletta, comprises different dining experiences in one. At street level, it offers a casual dining set-up with small sharing plates, but head downstairs and it’s a whole other level (literally), where refined dining meets experimental flavours. A great concept that’s certainly worthy of recognition.
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Commando Restaurant
Set inside a 300-year-old building, Commando Restaurant is perched on a hilltop in the historic centre of Mellieha, with summertime seating is available outside on the picturesque square. Offering warm, family-run service and an exceptional menu, the simple-yet-refined dishes Commando serves are extraordinary, but could they get a mention in the Guide?
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The Fork & Cork
Chef Carl Zahra serves a varied à la carte menu of Mediterranean dishes, as well as seasonal specials and a selection of fine platters at this welcoming resto situated on Rabat’s Saqqajja Hill. The menu changes regularly, so you never know what to expect (except incredible food), so it’s another one that could make the cut.
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Briju
Another newcomer to the local restaurant scene, Briju in Gzira is the brainchild of the Pulled Meat Company’s Chef Rafel Sammut, and while the space itself is unassuming, the dishes that come out of the kitchen are exceptional. The emphasis here is on fresh, seasonal, and typical ingredients that bely Rafel’s love and respect for Malta and its produce – he’s a certainly a rising star.
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Root 81
Another eatery located on the Saqqajja Steps, this innovative restaurant has a warm and friendly ambience, with excellent service and an exquisite, well-priced menu, which changes seasonally. Chef patron Robert Cassar and his team have received several awards since opening in 2017, so a mention in the Michelin Guide could be on the cards next.
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